TECHNIQUES 27
The easy ways of covering a brim 21
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Bias brim covering Measure the depth and circumference of the brim and cut your bias strips of foundation fabric with seam allowance (see Issue 106).
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For a deep gradient or curve, use the bias strip method for the brim. In earlier Issues 87 and 88, I showed how to block a canvas-covered brim on a ribbon disc block. With more pronounced curves, you’ll need the bias strip method and to block each piece separately. It’s easy to understand why covered hats with brims are less common than straw or straw-fabric hats. The work involved in a fabric-covered hat is four times that of straw, felt or similar materials, leading some makers to avoid fabric hats as less cost-effective.
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Pull the bias strip around the outside edge of the brim and pin the seam. Use two layers of double-sided canvas for most brims. With both bias and straight seams, pin the taut material in the centre of the seam. This seam line should also be replicated on the underbrim bias strip.
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Use the normal wiring methods to add a wire to the brim (see Issue 89).
Tip: When pulling the bias around the widest part of the brim edge, measure the outside edge of the brim for both seam techniques. Sometimes it’s hard to get the underbrim fabric tension the same as the outer brim.
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Make sure the back seams match. When you make the seams for the fabric, all seams must follow the same direction as the foundation base, including the bottom and top of the brim and the crown.
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Finish by covering the fabric and wire edge with a bias fold-over edge (see Issue 89 for brim edge finishes).
Flat brim covering Follow these basic rules to cover a flat brim: • Make sure that the bias is in the right position and all layers go the same way. With this kind of brim, use two layers of double-sided canvas (see Issue 106 for guidance).
• Ensure all the fabric (foundation and covering) is completely flat while steaming.
• It doesn’t matter how many pins it takes to flatten the material; it takes as many as it does!
Finish in the normal way as described next for the bias brim covering.
Cut the bias strips for the brim covering fabric using the same method as for the bias brim foundation base. Include seam allowance for the headfitting and the back seam.
There is so much more to learn about making covered brims – I have just scratched the surface of what can be achieved. Keep an eye out for the Instagram live sessions and updates on what I’m up to next.
november 2025 | 69
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