Application & use
Stiffening
Stiffening agents are an essential part of hat making, giving shape, durability, and finish to materials ranging from felt to straw and lightweight fabrics. A variety of natural and synthetic substances can be used, each with different properties, advantages, and limitations. The choice of stiffener depends on the material being worked with, the finish required, and whether waterproofing or dyeing will follow. What follows is an overview of the most commonly used stiffeners and their applications, together with practical notes on methods of application and care of tools.
When applying
stiffener, work methodically around the hat
and mark your starting point with a pin or thread. As stiffener can dry while you
are working, it may otherwise be difficult to see where you began.
APPLICATION
Stiffening solutions can be applied in several ways: sprayed directly, brushed on, or used as an immersion bath for the material. Some products are supplied in concentrated form and require dilution with water before use.
Liquid solvent-based stiffeners are generally supplied ready to use, with the advantage of consistent quality thanks to factory production. Another benefit is that they
are alcohol-based: since alcohol evaporates more rapidly than water, these stiffeners dry quickly, which can save time during blocking and finishing. Faster drying also reduces the risk of distortion while the material is being worked.
Dilution
Some areas may need extra stiffener for stability, such as the collar or high-touch points in the crown.
The amount of dilution varies according to both the type of stiffener and the fabric or straw being treated. Some stiffeners can
alter the appearance of the surface once dry, leaving a slight sheen – or causing darker tones, particularly on pale colours. For this reason, it is advisable to test the solution on a small sample of the material before treating the whole piece.
Applying alcohol-based stiffener
Alcohol-based stiffener can be applied either before or after blocking. Always
ensure that the material is fully dry before application, as any remaining moisture can prevent absorption of the stiffener.
© the hat magazine
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