AWARD-WINNING HOSPITALITY BE L L SCOOPS BE S T WE L SH INN PRIZE
Finding the perfect country inn to enjoy some down time is one of life’s great pleasures. Comfortable rooms, a picturesque location, fabulous food, wonderful service and a roaring fireplace. Can it get any better than this? Editor Sally-ann Bloomer went along to visit the Bell at Skenfrith in Monmouthshire which has just been awarded the Good Hotel Guide's César award for Best Welsh Inn for 2022.
Living in a village which sadly no longer has a pub to enjoy leisurely Sunday lunches and late night chats over drinks with the locals, I’m always rather envious of villages that do. To find one which has just that and an award-winning one to boot had me immediately searching the local estate agents to see how close (and how quickly) I could move to here.
A former coaching inn, The Bell at Skenfrith is a pretty white building sitting alongside the banks of the River Monnow which while pretty to look at, has however posed problems for owner Sarah Hudson. Just before the pandemic struck, she and her teamed faced their own crisis when the river burst its banks flooding all the downstairs areas. Just weeks later Covid hit with the ensuing lockdowns so it was time for a major refurb. The interiors have been given a fabulous fresh look, all designed by Sarah herself, and the result is a welcoming and comfortable eating and drinking space. The bedrooms, whilst not flooded, were also given a makeover and the charm of it all is the unique character of each room. All of the rooms are different with Sarah hand picking fabrics, furniture and accessories to create a hotel experience like no other. As a nod to the fly fishing which is so popular in the area, all of the rooms are named after fishing flies with a giant, wooden, fish-shaped key fob. These little individual touches just keep on coming.
We had booked in for a late Sunday lunch and arrived to find the car park fairly full. There is a main dining area which as part of the refurbishment has been opened out to create a light and airy space leading out onto the ample outdoor, partially covered dining terrace which on warmer days I am sure would have been busy. There is also an additional overspill area, often used for larger groups or private parties, with luxurious teal velvet sofas and dining chairs.
The restaurant has won many awards and has been under the same head chef, Joseph Colman, since Sarah took over six years ago. Born and bred Welsh, Joseph changes his menus regularly and his focus is very much on seasonal and local, many of the veg grown in their own kitchen garden and the meat sourced from local, tried and trusted farmers where possible.
Sunday lunch was clearly popular and the dining room had a mixture of families, couples and groups of friends all enjoying a lively afternoon with good food and drink. The food is elegant without being overly fussy but certainly a cut above your average Sunday roast at home.
I chose a Per Las cheese brulée, which was served with a simple pear and walnut salad and was absolutely delicious. The other half went for the crab starter which was clean, fresh and flavoursome – not always easy to achieve with crab. These came with a selection of the Bell’s bread with olive oil and balsamic which complemented our starters perfectly.
Sunday lunch in this region can mean only one thing and while my husband Tony would have happily devoured any of the choices - beef, pork, halibut - it had to be roast leg of Skenfrith lamb, served with the Bell garden’s fresh mint sauce, duck fat roast potatoes and seasonal vegetables. I chose the potato gnocchi which was served with a really tasty truffled mushroom and Parmesan cream. Both were polished off completely and didn’t disappoint on any count.
Whilst the pudding menu looked equally appetising, on this occasion two courses were more than enough. Note to self: next time don’t eat all the bread and save some room! After lunch it was time to explore the village a little and first stop has to be the old Norman castle ruins which are just across the road. Built in the early 1200s, it is thought it fell into decline, it too falling victim to winter flooding.
For those who want to venture further afield, the Bell has its own series of walking guides. The six circular walks all start and finish at the Bell and range from 2 to 6+ miles. The walking pamphlets can be picked up from The Bell and a pre-ordered picnic can help to sustain you should you be walking around lunchtime.
Dogs are welcome in the rooms (with an additional cost to cover cleaning) and there is also a designated Dog and Boot Bar, which is a hit with walkers and their four-legged friends. It’s a more relaxed space with complimentary biscuits for the pooches and there’s even an outdoor shower and dog towels available to clean off the mud.
The Bell is also available for weddings of all sizes, from small intimate dos indoors to larger parties up to 200 guests in their garden marque. Manager Maria, whose customer service is just excellent, and chef Joseph are happy to discuss every aspect of your day to ensure it is tailormade and memorable in every way. The Bell is currently closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, but is open from lunch time on Wednesday through to Sunday and pre-booking is essential.
For those living nearby, I am sure a visit here for meals and drinks is a regular treat but for those further afield, a short break is an absolute pleasure and definitely one to put on the ‘must visit’ list but be quick as with just 11 rooms and plaudits coming in thick and fast, availability is sure to be in short supply.
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WINING & DINING THE BE L L AT S K ENFRI TH
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