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Peel cinnamon in southern Sri Lanka


Although cinnamon comes from several related tree species, Sri Lanka is home to Cinnamomum verum — known as true cinnamon and long considered the finest. Harvested from the delicate inner bark of the tree, its sweet, warming flavour and intoxicating aroma have made it one of the world’s most prized spices for centuries. From ancient Egypt through the Roman era, cinnamon was valued as a luxury spice, used in rituals and embalming, while traders kept its origins secret to protect their lucrative monopoly. Thankfully, the secret is now out. At Gradely Estate,


45 minutes outside Galle, you can wander through cinnamon groves, learning how the tree’s slender stems are harvested and carefully peeled, and even try the process yourself. A visit to the working factory reveals how the bark is sun-dried, rolled into delicate quills and graded before being shipped around the world or ground into powder. Nearby, Cinnamon Walawwa offers the chance to experience cinnamon in another form: in the kitchen. Over spiced tea, you can learn to prepare cinnamon-infused curries in a lush garden setting. HOW TO DO IT: In-depth plantation tours and factory visits at Gradely Estate start from 22,400 RS per person (£50). gradelyestate.com cinnamonwalawwa.com


1


Browse the spice souks of Muscat, Oman


Located on the Arabian Sea between Saudi Arabia, Yemen and the UAE, the seafaring nation of Oman has long been a link between East Africa, India and Southeast Asia. That story is told in the spice section of Muttrah Souk, the Omani capital’s historic covered market, where technicolour cones of powdered ginger, turmeric and cumin sit alongside piles of frankincense rocks, bundled strands of saffron, and less familiar items like loomi — black, sun-dried limes. The air hangs particularly heavy with the scent


of frankincense, which Omanis use to perfume their homes, cars and traditional robes. Grown in the southern Omani region of Dhofar, as well as in the Horn of Africa, frankincense has long played a crucial role in Oman’s spice trade networks, alongside cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. You can learn all about Oman’s spice-route history — and sample the delicious ways in which it influences modern Omani cuisine — on a food tour with 365 Adventures. Visiting the home of a local family in Muscat, you’ll sip cardamom coffee and learn the time-honoured techniques behind a variety of traditional dishes. HOW TO DO IT: Food tours include visits to Muttrah Souk and a local family home, with prices on request. 365adventures.me/oman-food-tour


Clockwise from far left: Cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and pepper fuelled the great trading voyages; Sri Lanka’s coastline stretches for more than 1,000 miles; Muttrah Souk has traded spices for centuries


NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER – INDIAN OCEAN COLLECTION 35


IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY


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