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107 There followed a great sail to the Cycladic island of Passage from Gaeta to Isola di Procida


Kea. High up in the hills lies the ancient town of Loulis and the sculpture of a big stone lion, said to be ‘carved by a person unknown a long time ago.’ On the nearby island of Andros we took a bus to


the ferry port of Gavrio to renew our DEKPA (official documentation allowing us to sail in Greek waters). We expected to pay the annual renewal charge of €50 so were surprised when the port police demanded €300. It transpired they had never dealt with a DEKPA before and had consulted Google to find out what was required, unearthing a proposed legislation calling for yacht owners to pay a seasonal cruising fee. Carl explained the ruling had yet to be implemented as the port police nationally have refused to act as money collectors. An hour later the local port police eventu- ally verified this and stamped our DEKPA. In the end there was no charge as it turned out the original €50 fee lasts for five years. For now we remain on Evia waiting for the meltemi


to blow over, passing the time of day with George, a colourful Greek local full of racy tales about his time in the USA, where he worked in the construction industry. The Egyptian fishermen crew of the nearby trawl-


er gave us a bag of fresh fish in return for the box of sweet sticky baklava Carl gave them as a thank you for rescuing our dinghy which came loose and floated off! After 10 months at sea they caught the ferry for the start of their journey back home to Cairo for some well earned time off. We are stuck in the windy port


for a few more days but the sun is shining and the living is easy.


The colourful interior of a typical Greek Orthodox church on Aegina.


Whitewashed houses are built into the hillside at the ancient village of Ioulis, Kea.


The old carved stone lion at Iou- lis, Kea.


Leonie finds the perfect spot to moor in Vathi.


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