026 TRAVEL
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S
ince throwing off the shackles of the Soviet era, Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania have become something of a high-octane trio when it comes to targeting
travellers. And with healthy economies, captivating capital cities and vast swathes of untouched nature it’s no surprise. Neil Taylor spent 30 years as director of a travel company specialising in the Baltic States before going on to write extensively on a region he visits regularly. He’s also the author of guidebooks to Estonia and the Baltic cities.
“This year marks 100 years since Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania declared independence from the USSR, so it’s birthday time! A whole year of celebrations is taking place in museums and art galleries and, during summer, on beaches and by lakes and rivers,” says Neil, whose new book Estonia: A Modern History will be published in July. “Go to Estonia for its islands and
Teutonic Castles, to Latvia for its grand Victorian houses and beaches, and to Lithuania for its Mediterranean feel with its light colours and ornate churches,” he advises, adding June is a great time to visit as the sun hardly sets, while in July and August the countries provide an escape from Mediterranean heat, crowds and prices.
Capital gains
When it comes to highlights of the capitals, Neil recommends the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn, that also exhibits an Estonian submarine manufactured in Barrow-in- Furnace, the Motor Museum in Riga with cars used (and crashed) by the Soviet elite, and the Treasury of Vilnius Cathedral – where not a single glistening item is less than 300 years old. He is also keen to stress the accessibility of the Baltic countries. “Everybody in tourism speaks English.
It’s the bond more than any other linking the three countries to the West and puts the Soviet era behind them. Prices are reasonable, and shopping is excellent, from colourful fabrics, elaborate glass and juniper wood, which boast a light brown colour that gives a Scandinavian feel to table mats, coasters and trays. And its berries produce more varieties of gin than you’ll have time to test.”
ESTONIA
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ONIA.COM
ESTONIA’S COASTLINE HAS BEEN DESCRIBED AS HAUNTINGLY WILD
With almost 1,500 islands and islets, Estonia’s coastline has been described as ‘hauntingly wild’, and with less than one-and-a-half-million people it’s one of the least populous members of the European Union. Almost half the country is covered by forest, while the capital Tallinn is one of turrets and spires, bustling squares, cobbled back streets, traditional stone pubs and museums. A short bus ride from the city, Pirita makes for a pleasant day trip. You’ll not only experience views of Tallinn’s skyline and harbour from an attractive promenade but can enjoy a rather fi ne spa hotel (once accommodation for sailing teams during the 1980 Moscow
Olympics) and be reminded of the Russian infl uence at the Maarjamae war memorial with its concrete sculptures of fallen Red Army soldiers.
WHY GO? • Marvel at the beauty of Alatskivi Castle.
• Tallinn’s old town. • Viljandi in the south of the country, a charming little town of hilltop ruins and host to the country’s largest music festival each July.
• Otepaa is one of the Baltics’ best places for winter sports.
• For sweeping city views head to the 22nd fl oor of the Tallinn Television Tower.
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