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which cannot seal as it’s too stiff. As I know within my job at JLR I deal with engineers all the time and replacing a swaged connection with a pipe clamp, picture 8, made me think, what orientation should I put the clamp in so that I can access it should it need tightening or changing? Also considerations for engine movement. The pipes on one side are engine mounted and so proximity to body/subframe is a concern, the pipes and clamp will move with engine movement and as such will need clearance to prevent contact, picture 9. All these things are needed to be considered when doing any modification/fix which isn’t as OEM. Anyway once I had fixed the pipes it was just a case of re-assembly, picture 10, remembering to lift the front wheels off the ground to bleed the PAS system with a few turns lock to lock, then to get the car in the air (but level) in order to fill up the transmission fluid. I did this by


46 GROWLER SEPTEMBER 2016


getting the N/S wheels of the car on to a kerb, then lifting the O/S of the car with jacks and axle stands to get the car level. The fill plug is on the O/S rear of the transmission (hence N/S on kerb). With the car level I released the plug, then started the engine prior to removal of the fill plug and using an oil suction pump (massive syringe) to fill the transmission. Got it to the point at which it was dribbling out of the fill plug, then jumped in the car, foot solidly on the brake pedal and cycled the gearbox through all the gears in order to bleed the system, picture 11. Then back under the car again to top it up.


Do not at any point switch the engine


off with the fill plug out, the level must be filled with the engine running! Or the three litres or so in the system will flow back to the trans sump and out the fill plug hole. This is all working around a hot exhaust pipe which is within close proximity so take care. I’m glad to report no leaks (touch wood) ●!


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