IN SEASON
Seasonal chef
MATT BUDDEN OF THE HIGHCLIFF GRILL RESTAURANT IN BOURNEMOUTH EXPLAINS HOW SEASONAL PRODUCE HELPS HIM TO KEEP THE MENU FRESH…
he fact that we are a hotel restau- rant can be challenging at times because we have guests that stay with us every single week. But Marriott lets each hotel have its own sourcing policy, which means we have the free- dom to source seasonal, local produce and change the menu regularly. We work very closely with local suppliers and visit them on a regular basis to make sure that we understand their products. We do what works for the producers and ensure we are fair to them. We need to be realistic in terms of what they can produce for us; it’s about the supplier/client relationship. We then fi nd a format that will work with those seasonal ingredients at the restaurant. We have a menu that we can change literally within the season, day by day, which allows us to run with products we really want to feature. We also run our Taste of Dorset menu, which changes regularly. Keep- ing the menu fresh is particularly im- portant for our in-house residents. It’s a bit like a tasting menu, but with more choice within it and it really allows us to showcase seasonal, local produce. In terms of what’s on the menu at the moment we have purple sprouting broccoli, kale, new season asparagus, delicious Dorset charcuterie and Lyme Bay fi sh. I work a lot with the Lyme Bay fi shermen and try to introduce some fi sh that not everyone may be aware of. Hake features heavily on our menu at the moment, we also have smoked trout and pollock and we even had cuttle fi sh on recently! Green is the theme for May’s menu, with plenty of asparagus and young leaves…
T 26 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
KEDGEREE WITH CRISPY DUCK EGGS AND WATERCRESS Serves 4
❤ 4 free range duck eggs ❤ 1 banana shallot diced fi nely ❤ 100g unsalted butter diced ❤ Half tsp mild madras powder ❤ Half tsp turmeric ❤ 100g Arborio rice ❤ 300ml vegetable stock ❤ 45g peas ❤ 1 egg beaten ❤ 75g white breadcrumbs ❤ 250ml whole milk ❤ 2 peppercorns ❤ 2 bay leaves ❤ 4 x 170g smoked pollock (use naturally smoked haddock if not available)
❤ 1 punnet watercress ❤ Salt and pepper
1 Soft boil the eggs for 4 minutes in boiling water and then cool in iced water, peel
carefully and set aside.
2 Sweat the shallots in 75g of butter until soft, add the madras and turmeric and cook until the colour starts to bleed out, then add the rice and mix until it’s coated in the mixture. Add the stock a ladle at a time and let it absorb before adding the next. The rice should be cooked but have a loose texture to it. Add the peas, remove from the heat and let it rest.
3 Roll the peeled eggs in the beaten egg, then roll in the breadcrumbs.
4 Infuse the milk with bay leaves and peppercorns and bring to a rolling boil. Poach the pollock in the milk for 4 minutes then remove from the heat.
5 Shallow fry the eggs until crispy, add the remaining butter to the kedgeree mix and season.
6 Plate the kedgeree mix on the serving plate and fl ake the pollock over the top, slice the duck egg in half and place so the yolk runs into the kedgeree. Finish with Dorset watercress.
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