smooth trough in the wall to add great- er gluing surface. Like any uneven or textured wall surface such as board and batten or clapboard, try to smooth out the area that will accept the ad- hesive. It takes a little longer to trim back battens or clapboards to achieve proper window/door fit, but then there is enough gluing surface that they won’t fall out when being carried to the layout. Awnings and sloping porch roofs
have little attachment surface to hold any adhesive. I add a ⅛-x-⅛ strip of basswood to the inner edge, and then razor off the offending corner to the ap- propriate angle. Sand it smooth with an emery board. This, at least, gives a semblance of gluable surface. Another method is to take some soft brass wire and pound flat the section that is glued to the underside of the roof. Bend the unflattened round section to the proper angle, and then drill the main wall for a snug fit into the main wall. Do both methods for an even stronger attachment. When I make an angled styrene or
wood roof, I use the angled end walls as a template to make a pair (or more) of interior angled braces. I reinforce these on both sides with stout strips of styrene. This is a good way to make removable roofs. It also helps when painting the roof a different color from the rest of the model. Any way you can think of to strength-
en the model while not compromising the appearance is a plus. To describe a model as delicate is often not a compli- ment, but criticism. Err on the side of strength where possible and your mod- els will be better for it. Next month, we will take up a subject near and dear to my heart: tools!
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This “Parker” style double track kit comes as a 200 foot long beauty which can be customized in 25 foot lengths from 100 feet.
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JULY 2015 87
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