Removing Siding A sharp chisel hobby blade was used to re- move the siding from the window and door open- ings after the adhesive had dried. Notice the mitered edges.


Assembling the Walls Brace the corners, top, and bottom with ¼-inch square wood. Glue the two units together. White or tacky glue works well for this. Install the corner caps. I used 1/32-inch thick stripwood with a 2/32-inch and 3/32-inch width respectively.


Window & Doors Spray the windows and doors with Krylon flat finish to give some tooth for the acrylic paint.


Drybrush the windows with the color of your choice. I used a dull green. It’s okay if some of the gray shows through.


I put some thin wood over a few panes to simulate where a broken window has been boarded over. If you are using styrene or acetate glazing, now is the time to install it. (I used liquid glazing at the very end.)


Corrugated Roof I cut some K&S Engineer-


ing tin roofing into strips a scale four feet wide and 8½ feet long. I placed them on a sheet of Press and Seal wrap to hold them lightly in place while I sprayed them with a rust-colored primer. The Press and Seal provides just enough adhesion to hold them in place


Interior Bracing Anyone who has ever built a wooden structure knows that support has to be added across the grain of the wood to keep it from warping. I used small pieces of basswood glued to the inside of the walls to stiffen them and to avoid warping.


50 RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN


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