TAILORING
Which fabrics to choose: According to Raffles, business travellers should invest in a 100 per cent wool suit with weights ranging between 270 and 300 grams/metre. This lightweight fabric can keep you warm or cool depending on the climate. Good quality worsted wool is also a smart choice, as it straightens itself out after hanging for a few hours. It also advises that two pieces are packed in a suit cover and stored in hand carry instead of being stuffed into your main luggage. Popular styles: The one suit that all business travellers must have, according to Raffles Tailor, is a slim cut suit in midnight blue or charcoal due to its versatility.
DID YOU KNOW – THE SOMETIMES, ALWAYS, NEVER RULE Want to wear your three-button suit jacket the best way you can? Then follow the “Sometimes,
Always, Never” rule. n Sometimes: It is sometimes appropriate to have the top button or your suit jacket closed as well as the middle one. If the lapel is flat, it will look good if you button it. If the lapel rolls over and hides the top button, then just button the middle one. n Always: It is always appropriate to fasten the middle button, as it naturally pulls the jacket together at your waist and lets the bottom flare out around your hips. n Never: Never button the last button as it will mess up the intended tailoring and flare offered by the middle button.
(The “Always, Never” rules also apply to a two-buttoned suit.)
patterns such as paisley and polka dot print. Alternatively, Singh suggests going for different colour accents on the lapel button and cuff buttonhole for a bespoke twist. Price: Suits start from THB10,000 (US$304) for super fine wool blend fabrics. For Italian milled fabrics, prices are higher. Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm; Sunday by appointment only. Contact: 252/2 Silom Road next to Soi 18, Bangrak, near Narai Hotel, Bangkok Tel: +66 8 1611 2313 Web:
universaltailor.com
SINGAPORE RAFFLES TAILORS
London-trained professional Mac Ho is the creative talent behind Raffles
66 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015
Tailors two boutique stores. He pays meticulous attention to the cut and fit, creating each suit based on the customers’ body shape so no two suits are ever the same.
Time needed to complete a suit: Raffles’ hand-stitched suits require a minimum turnaround time of three to four weeks, although for customers on a short trip, this experience can be streamlined by sending detailed measurements ahead and then going in for a mock- up fitting; the finished product can then be sent on. Those short on time can consider the Singaporean tailor’s recently launched semi-bespoke collection of pre-stitched business suits. The jacket and trousers are then customised to match its new owner, which takes two to five days.
Options for black-tie functions: Raffles can create a classic full tuxedo with black bow tie and cummerbund or vest. Trends for 2015: The tailor is currently experiencing a lot of orders for two-button peak-lapel slim cut suits. This variation on the two-piece shows off the silhouette and is a good choice for fashion savvy clients. Price: Bespoke suits range from S$2,400 (US$1,839) to S$36,000 (US$27,581) depending on the
Clockwise from opposite page: The making of a suit jacket; Mac Ho at work; inside Raffles Tailors' flagship
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THE ART OF MANLINESS
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