BANGKOK UNIVERSAL TAILORS
With more than 30 years of experience, Universal has a team of in-house tailors and prides itself on creating distinctive styles and cuts of the highest quality.
Time needed to complete a suit: Universal's tailors adopt the traditional method of hand stitching suits, meaning clients are required to wait for at least three working days and allow for up to three fittings. A two-day fitting process is achievable however, with the final product being sent on to the client’s address. Which fabrics to choose: Universal Tailors is a big fan of wools, and stock some of the finest worsted 100 percent wool fabrics with no synthetic or polyester mix. Owner Ronnie Singh says because it is a natural fabric, pure wool is breathable and insulates your body, keeping you warm during cooler weather and cool in hotter climates. Lightweight options such as open weave wool work best for warm countries, while winter tweeds and flannel fabrics are best for colder
climes, says Singh. Wool is also a good choice for frequent travellers as it wrinkles less than other fabrics, particularly Australian Merino wool, he adds.
Popular styles: According to Singh, slim cut is the most popular style at the moment. This means the jacket shoulders are smaller with a slightly shorter body, high armholes and a more snug fit around the waist to create that sharp, slim silhouette. Trousers tend to be tapered, with no pleats or cuffs.
Options for black-tie functions: The Bangkok-based tailor specialises in tuxedos and tail jackets for more formal affairs. Trends for 2015: Universal has seen the double-breasted jacket make a comeback recently. In 2015 it expects this to continue, with slimmer cuts and shorter lengths. The single-button-breasted jacket is also expected to be a popular choice, as is the classic two-button single- breasted suit. To add some distinctive creative touches, the tailor offers a wide range of Bemberg linings in colourful
TIPS
BEFORE GOING TO A TAILOR… n Browse through some fashion magazines or websites to get an idea of the trends and styles that will suit you. n Bring in pictures of suits you like to so your tailor has a visual reference point. n Be clear about the occasion you plan to wear the suit. Is it for a business meeting, casual or a formal evening do? This will dictate what colours and fabric patterns you should choose. n Be certain about what cut you want. For example, Americans tend to prefer a looser cut, whereas Europeans usually opt for more slim-fitting suits. n Don’t forget to take some dress shoes to try on with the suit.
DURING THE FITTING… n Stand up straight with your arms relaxed at your side to ensure the best fit. n Make sure shoulder pads end with your shoulders. They should meet the sleeve of the suit at the same point as your arm meets your shoulder. n The back of your trousers should be a smooth drape over the shape of your bottom. If it’s too loose, the tailor can add in a seat to make it tighter. n The “trouser break” is a small wrinkle where the trouser cuff stops at the shoe. A tailor usually reserves one inch for the break. n When buttoning your jacket, the two sides should meet neatly without being too loose. But it shouldn’t be too tight either – take a walk around and see how it feels. n The ideal jacket sleeve length should allow between a quarter and half of the shirt cuff to be visible. n The jacket collar should be resting on your shirt collar with a light touch. If there is a gap or the collar is flopping back off your neck, it is too loose. If it’s bunching or the shirt collar is wrinkled, then the jacket collar is too tight.
AFTER YOU’VE PURCHASED… n Remove the suit from the plastic bag covering once you get home, as plastic can emit fumes and weaken the suit fibres. Store in a garment bag instead. n Fold the jacket inside out while travelling, and ideally in a suit bag, to prevent wrinkles. n To remove any hairs or fibres, use a suit brush to spruce up your two- piece. Steam cleaning should be limited to a few times a year as it can cause suits to lose their shape. n Opt for wet cleaning instead of dry-cleaning as it doesn’t use chemicals and can help retain the suit’s shape.
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www.businesstraveller.asia JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015 65
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