›EXPERT Q & A
This issue’s expert is long-standing BMC volunteer Andy Newton. Andy is current chair of the BMC Training and Youth Committee, a
mountaineering instructor and Mountain Training course provider. See
www.andynewtonmic.org.
“THE WEB IS A GREAT RESOURCE FOR FINDING A PARTNER. HOWEVER, LIKE
DATING, YOU CAN’T BE SURE OF THE REAL PRODUCT TURNING UP…”
Q. How did you get into climbing outside? A. After a day in Lancashire edge with a family friend, I joined a club as soon as I went to college and didn’t look back. I was one of the fi rst generation of climbers to really hone their skills indoors before venturing outside, so that was interesting: E-grade fi nger strength combined with Diff-grade technical knowledge made for some exciting days out. Q. What do you remember as a big learning experience? A. Two things really, fi rstly the outdoor crag environment took a little getting used to. Fortunately, as an experienced hill walker, I was fairly at home on steep hillsides; a luxury many novice outdoor climbers don’t always have. Secondly, I remember it being diffi cult to know exactly what was safe practice (although I did have Alan Blackshaw’s fi ne book to help me), and it wasn’t until I started on an outdoor education course that I understood all the principles behind the safety systems. However, today there’s a wealth of instructional help and material. Q. And any experiences you’d prefer never happened? A. That’s diffi cult: all your uncomfortable and dangerous experiences are what makes you who you are, and all those you survive are what builds the vital judgement not to get into the same situation next time. At least, that’s the theory! So no, I wouldn’t change anything, but at least I’m now in a position to help other people avoid the more thoughtless mistakes! Q. What’s your most important advice for someone new to climbing outside? A. Start easy. At fi rst, your skills for dealing with the crag environment, whether sport or trad climbing, won’t necessarily match your climbing ability, particularly if you are coming from an indoor background. Put that ego to one side while you gain the experience you require. You can push the boat out once you understand just what the real risks are, and what you can do to reduce them.
Stanage, Peak District: the launchpad of many climbing careers.
SUMMIT#73 | SPRING 2014 | 89
PHOTO: ALEX MESSENGER.
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