CLIMB SKILLS
›HOW TO: HEAD OUTSIDE
Are you an indoor climber dreaming of escaping the dusty wall in search of sun-drenched rock? Dan Bradley leads the way.
What’s new outside?
Outside climbing is a whole new adventure. The fi rst thing to remember about being outside is that whilst all that you learnt inside is still very relevant (knots, the buddy system, belaying and trying not to hit the fl oor too hard) there is a whole lot more to consider too. But exactly what you encounter will depend on whether you’re planning to tackle traditional (trad) climbing, sport climbing or bouldering.
The different disciplines Trad climbing requires lots of equipment, is relatively expensive to start and moderate to intermediate technical ability is needed. For sport climbing, a rope, harness, belay device and quickdraws are the most costly items you’ll need. The technical knowledge for sport climbing isn’t as intense as trad climbing, however, it’s still vital. Then, fi nally, there’s bouldering – where you can get away with a pair of boots, a bouldering mat and your usual climbing wall clothes.
Team up Two of the best ways to experience outdoor climbing are with a local club or on an organised course. Find a local club – many of which accept outdoor beginners at
www.thebmc.co.uk/map. Look out for courses run from climbing walls, such as
›FURTHER INFO TRY:
BMC Ready to Rock Climbing Course From £80 Our value-for-money,
Ready to Rock outdoor-climbing courses in North Wales are there to help you make the move from indoor walls to outdoor crags with confi dence.
www.thebmc.co.uk/climb-outside
WATCH: BMC TV £Free Heading outside? Watch our free skills and gear fi lms on BMC TV – from gear-placing basics to how to lead on double ropes.
www.thebmc.tv
the subsidised BMC Rock Out courses. These allow you to learn with like-minded people, fi nd that climbing partner and get some cheap tuition at the same time. Or, if you can travel to North Wales, check out the BMC Ready to Rock courses. Details of both at
www.thebmc.co.uk/climbing- outside.
Going it alone You don’t have to go on a course to experience outdoor climbing, you could just team up with someone who ‘seems’ to know what they are really talking about and jump in at the deep end. The web is a great resource for fi nding a partner. However, like dating, you can’t be sure of the real product turning up. Watch out for someone suggesting a tricky abseil approach to a tidal sea cliff or driving for 12 hours to someone else’s ‘ideal crag’ for that fi rst meeting. Easy access, single pitch and well-protected crags are the best place to build confi dence.
How to behave
Ever since Napes Needle was climbed in 1886, climbers have discussed appropriate tactics endlessly, especially down the pub. British ethics are a complex affair: some crags are trad gear only, others allow pitons, some are grid bolted. Reading a guidebook before you go will help you understand the history and style of
climbing at a venue. However, one thing is universal: rubbish, fi nger tape, chalk, wrappers (and worse) are all best left within your (mate’s) rucksack.
All the gear?
This all depends on where you are going and there is lots of advice to be had. Bouldering, trad climbing and sport climbing need very different types of clothing and equipment. See www.
thebmc.co.uk/what-gear-do-you-need-to- climb-outdoors for an example list.
Are you ready?
In conclusion, your aim before you head out is to know where to go and have a competent person with you, who you can trust to make reasonable and safe decisions. Ideally you should be able to get to your location and fi nd your route with relative ease (but bear in mind even the best struggle at this sometimes). You should know what a guidebook is and have the right one for the single pitch, non-tidal crag you’ve chosen. Finally check that your kit is all up for the job. If this sounds like you, then enjoy the start of a lifelong adventure. But if you’re in doubt about any aspect, then why not sign up for a subsidised BMC course?
Words: Dan Bradley
BMC member Dan Bradley has “been trying to get the hang of climbing for 12 years”. During that time he’s competed internationally, climbed big mountains and worked at Plas y Brenin. He’s currently director of
Uptosummit.com, fi nd out more about their courses at
www.uptosummit.com.
WWW.THEBMC.C
O.UK/CLIMBSKILL S
BUY:
Rock Climbing Essentials £14 (members)
Produced by the BMC, this DVD is packed with essential skills and techniques to help you get the most from our moorland outcrops, majestic mountain crags and wild sea cliffs.
www.bmcshop.co.uk
88 | 70TH ANNIVERSARY | FOR BRITISH CLIMBING AND WALKING SINCE 1944
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