MAKE THIS YEAR COUNT
Will 2014 be the year you leave Stanage behind? Make a break for more esoteric delights, cries BMC guidebook scribe Niall Grimes.
Thorn Crag, Lancashire A stately home of moorland gritstone with problems of the highest order. A 40-minute walk leads to a full day’s worth of classic ticking. Great in a sunny spring or autumn day. Oh – and you can see the sea!
Celtic Jumble, Torridon Welcome to the Jumble! The new guidebook (one of the sweetest bouldering guides around) lays open the best bouldering in Scotland. Is this the best positioned bouldering in the UK?
Porth Ysgo, Lleyn Peninsula Holiday bouldering on the sunniest appendage on Wales. Endless fi nger- fondling gems with the worst landings in the UK. Bring a big team and lots of mats.
Bonehill, Dartmoor Stay on the moors! Wide open spaces, big skies and tons of problems. The rock’s as sharp as werewolf’s teeth so you’ll be doing lots of relaxing. It’s good for that too, luckily.
St Bees, Lake District Sandstone royalty that gives an unforgettable visit or your money back. Mid- grade heaven in a seaside setting. To be there as the sun sets on a warm day is as good as it gets.
R Chris Doyle
worshipping at the church of power: Parisella's Cave, Llandudno.
Slipstones, Yorkshire This could well be in a ‘top fi ve list’ of anyone who has ever been. The rock quality is peerless and the setting majestic. Oh boy!
Kyloe in the Woods, Northumberland It’s where the elves come to play. A deeply-wooded sandstone wonderland of steep cranking, up great features.
Parisella’s Cave, Llandudno A church of power for devoted muscle-heads with countless three-star problems and link-ups. Make no mistake, you will suffer here.
Cratcliffe Tor, Peak District A magical interlude of gloriously grippy gritstone, with rounded gargoyles, wizard ridges and fairytale bulges scattered over an enchanted acre of England.
Godrevy, Cornwall Great holiday bouldering with fi ckle conditions, just a short distance from the tourist honeypot of St Ives. Tidal troubles and lingering dampness aside, if you get it right you’ll have a unique session.
Check out more bouldering in the BMC guidebooks – see
www.bmcshop.co.uk
34 | 70TH ANNIVERSARY | FOR BRITISH CLIMBING AND WALKING SINCE 1944
Visit the 10 best UK bouldering venues (that aren’t called the Plantation)
PHOTO: ALEX MESSENGER.
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