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advanced skin care


This knowledge led to Dr. Fernandes’ development of gentler, more superficial peeling regimes.


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“The ‘Cool’ peel approach is quite different from the standard peel that aims to destroy cells to certain depths of the skin,“ he explains. “The old fashioned principal works on the concept that if you kill the cells of the epidermis then the basal cell layer of keratinocytes start to grow faster. The deeper the peel they claimed, the better the result. Unfortunately recent research has shown that neither peeling norMicrodermabrasion has any effect on the speed of growth of the basal keratinocytes.


“My research has shown that by using selected, less aggressive acids that function at the surface and cause only mild exfoliation, one can leave them in contact with the skin for prolonged periods. In this way we cause a field pH change in the epidermis that then causes reduction of fine wrinkles, tightening of skin, more youthful looking skin and reduction of pigmented marks. The precise mechanism is not yet clear but I believe that this results from stimulation that induces the release of growth factors.”


natural l-lactic acid


The favoured type of alpha hydroxy acid for this new approach is natural l- lactic acid. This acid is gentler than trichloracetic acid (TCA) peels done by medical professionals and also the glycolic acid peels done by therapists. Lactic acid is an important part of the skin’s natural moisturising factors; it is more hydrating than glycolic acid and stings less.


These light, repetitive ‘Cool’ peels, repeated once weekly for lines, wrinkles, scarring or problem skin concerns - are just as effective as one heavy peel. The treatment is safe and comfortable with no downtime. The stratum corneum remains largely intact, healthy cells survive and only damaged cells are removed, skin tone and texture is improved and collagen formation results.A cream base ensures even application and slow penetration of acid ions. Using a low percentage acid means the peel can be left on the skin for a prolonged period (up to 20-minutes).


The best way to speed up the growth of the keratinocytes is to stimulate growth factors or to supply vitaminA, the molecule that controls growth. Doing both enhances the overall result. This ideal combination of factors helps us to make thicker, healthier and thus more naturally youthful textured skin.


The activation of growth factors induces collagen and elastin production. This reduces lines and wrinkles, and results in a younger, thicker, smoother and healthier skin. This new safer alternative to the old short sharp shock style of treatment promises to add new appeal to anti-ageing services in beauty salons.


Tracy Tamaris is training director at iiaa, UK / Ireland distributor of Environ Skin Care. For more information telephone 0208 450 2020 quoting Guild News.


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