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advanced skin care


growth appeal Tracy Tamaris considers a superficial peel alternative to dermabrasion


The view that deep exfoliation of the epidermis is an effective way to renew ageing skin is set to fall out of favour. There’s now evidence that adopting a new superficial peeling approach not only creates a more natural looking radiance, it does so by stimulating growth.


A new lactic acid-based peeling protocol, developed by plastic surgeon and Environ Skin Care founder Dr Des Fernandes, is demonstrating that there is a safer way to renew skin. ‘Cool’ peeling, when done repetitively, for an extended time and with a low concentration, low pH formulation, results in thicker skin with a healthy radiance.


Dr Fernandes’ 20 years’ clinical experience has led him to the theory that achieving an appropriate pH change in the epidermis stimulates the keratinocytes to release various growth factors that safely create healthy, beautiful skin – without the disadvantages of old-style peels.


It was his work with burns victims over many years that led him to experiment with lighter peels in the 1980s. He could see that heavy peels were painful, slow to heal, shed excessive skin cells, could cause infection, scarring, hyper and hypo-pigmentation and resulted in fragile, dry, over-sensitive skin. Higher strength acid formulations exposed to the skin for a short time penetrated quickly, making it difficult to control the depth of peel.


Traditionally deeper peeling protocols were developed to abrade and remove layers of the epidermis to create


Before and after six treatments of Environ Cool Peel.


dramatically smoother, younger looking skin. The skin looks smooth but is not healthy and the normal epidermis, once destroyed, never returns.More aggressive peeling also causes scar collagen (type III) to be laid down.


Dr Fernandes explains: “The fibroblasts are persuaded to manufacture dense layers of collagen then the fibres shorten and the skin becomes tighter and a scar is made in the dermis immediately below the epidermis.


“This damage is significant and later on clients can look much older than they should, with fine wrinkles and crepey skin.After a few years, the collagen is re-absorbed, and not replaced, so the deeper layers of the skin become thinner. This means that the epidermis can ‘slide’ on the dermis because the rete pegs were destroyed in the original peel and have not grown back.And the epidermis is still not functioning normally.”


The low down on growth factors


• Proteinmoleculesmade by the body which instruct cells to divide andmultiply • They rebuild and heal skin - part of the natural wound healing process • Promote skin tissue repair and regeneration • Release of transforming growth factor,TGF-Beta-3, stimulates collagen type 1 • Collagen 1 - seen young skin - gives scarless healing


• Other growth factors released are epidermal growth factor (EGF), fibroblast growth factor (FGF) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF)


• Result in production of collagen and elastin to tighten and smoothen skin


GUILD NEWS 45


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