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SARATOGA SIDEBAR


WOOD-FIRED ARTISAN PIZZA IS PART OF THE SHOW AT HARVEST AND HEARTH, AT SARATOGA’S FISH CREEK MARINA.


BEST PIZZA IN SARATOGA. REALLY. Ask about local pizza, and recommendations come flood- ing in. White or red, thin or deep-dish, New York or wood- fired—each has its fans. There is no arguing: De pizzabus non est disputandum. Two Saratoga stalwarts with legions of devotees are Pope’s


on Washington Street and Marino’s on West Circular. Anthro- pology professor emeritus and serious foodie Gerry Erchak says Pope’s reminds him of pizza he enjoyed growing up in north- ern New Jersey. He says, “I also like Marino’s—a gooey, oily, umami-producing thing that is sui generis.” (Umami is the Japa - nese “fifth taste”: meaty savoriness.) Bill Jones, Skidmore’s sports information director, is loyal to Marino’s “traditional pizza with real mozzarella cheese, made the same way now that it was 25 years ago.” But wait, says Scope’s associate editor Paul Dwyer ’83: Don’t forget Caputo’s in Wilton’s Home Depot plaza. “It has wonder- ful thin-crust pie and Long Island-style garlic knots, hard to find around here.” Caputo’s also offers specialty pizzas such as shrimp scampi and chicken marsala, all beautifully displayed on its Web site. D’Andrea’s, a student favorite on Caroline Street, has a Facebook page full of photos that reveal a willingness to toss anything onto a pie (You want fries with that? You got ’em!). I couldn’t resist getting a chicken-bacon-ranch delivered. It was a tasty combo atop a somewhat sweet crust. Students love Esperanto on Caroline Street—it’s “a Skidmore tradition,” says Robin Adams ’00 in the leadership activities office. They also like the Spring Street Deli and Clinton Street’s Amore, the latest incarnation of the venerable Pink Store.


Classicist Michael Arnush favors Giacone’s on Lake Avenue, as well as Harvest and Hearth on Staffords Bridge Road at the Fish Creek marina opposite Skidmore’s boathouse.


68 SCOPE FALL 2011


Giacone’s is a friendly neighborhood pizzeria and deli; a large pie with sausage, mushrooms, half green peppers, and half eggplant is our regular home-delivery order. Harvest and Hearth offers ar- tisanal, wood-fired pizza with local organic produce and clean meats (it had me sold with its nitrite-free maple and fennel sausage); Skidmore’s info-tech help-desk manager Brien Muller appreciates its gluten-free options. On Broadway, Max London’s line of wood-fired pizza is favored by English professor Sarah Goodwin for its great crust and fresh toppings. Go on Wednesdays to pay just $9 for the generous individual pies, including one with speck (a lean Ger- man bacon), tomatoes, house-made mozzarella, and arugula, or with shrimp and chorizo, mahon cheese, romesco crema, and fresh chilis. Also on Broadway, Forno Bistro serves up gems like the “Mar gherita,” with crushed tomatoes, mozza rella, and basil, a favorite of Skidmore librarian Ruth Copans. For a white pizza, try Forno’s “Rosalina,” with roasted pear, garlic and herbs, gorgonzola, brie, and mozzarella, topped with arugula and a balsamic reduction.


Saratoga has its share of chain pizza joints, but Mama Mia’s— on Route 50 south of downtown—is not one of them, its name notwithstanding. Jeanne Sisson, administrator for Skidmore’s board of trustees, finds it “close to ‘real’ New York pizza with its thin crust.”


New this summer, Capriccio Saratoga on Henry Street prom- ises its own take on Neapolitan pizza by legendary Capital Dis- trict restaurateur Jim Rua of Café Capriccio in Albany. His emphasis is on fatta in casa—food made or grown on the premises. Whether it’s from a pizza shop men- tioned here or not, most residents and visi- tors have found their “best pizza in town.” No arguments from me. Mangiamo. —KG


CHARLIE SAMUELS


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