January 2011:Facing Pages 14/12/10 13:21 Page 69
the buzz fromIDI
eye spy
Sally Penford explains why retinolmay be a cure-all for the eyes
Worried about fine lines? Wrinkles? Uneven skin tone? Furrow no more; Retinol is the smart solution to reverse and prevent multiple signs of ageing.
what makes a wrinkle?
As early as their mid-20s, clients may start to notice the very first signs of ageing, with the eyes usually leading the wrinkle brigade. In the ageing process, there are certain structural and cellular changes that lead to tell- tale signs such as wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, rough skin, and loss of elasticity. The dermis thins primarily due to UV-induced collagen degradation by matrix metalloproteinase’s (i.e. collagenase). Combined with epidermal thinning, triggered by a decrease in cell turnover rate, this leads to wrinkles, fine lines and thin, lacklustre skin. As inevitable as this seems, it’s no reason to throw up your hands and head for the hills. The good news is that many of these changes are treatable.
is retinol the answer?
VitaminA exerts its beneficial effects on the skin via its active derivative, retinoic acid. The effects of retinoic acid upon ageing skin are very well documented in scientific literature. However, this ingredient is only available by prescription and may produce unwanted side effects such as dehydration, vulnerability to UV, irritation and itching.
Retinol, another vitaminA derivative, has been shown to have the same effects as prescription-strength retinoic acid, without the irritation. How is this possible?Well skin cells have the equipment to convert retinol into retinoic acid, the powerhouse alleviating the ageing process. Working in the dermis and epidermis, retinol stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and epidermal thickness, visibly improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation without any adverse skin reactions.
A recent study* showed all these effects at a low and tolerable concentration of 0.1percent. Using retinol at this concentration allows you to get all the benefits of this great vitamin without the irritation - a key balance especially for the delicate eye area.
how should I use retinol?
A healthy skin is smooth, with a dense collagen and elastin network. It is also rich in retinoid receptors to handle vitaminA. On the other hand, photo damaged skin is depleted of vitaminA, as UV radiation destroys retinoid receptors. Fortunately, we can increase retinoid receptors in the skin by applying vitaminA topically. Over time, the number of receptors
increases, allowing retinol to exert its effects without irritation. Retinol allows your clients to ease into healthy, clear skin without going under the knife.
We suggest starting alternate nights to build up the skin’s tolerance to retinol and if responding well clients can ramp up to nightly
use.Always advise them to use sun protection during the day and remember retinol can be degraded with UV exposure, which is why we recommend using this at night.
Avoid layering with other products like alpha hydroxy acids and always recommend your client consults a doctor if pregnant or breastfeeding.
Retinol is relatively mild compared to prescription-strength retinoids but it’s always wise to be wary of individual’s skin. Some are very sensitive and may not tolerate products with retinoids. For the majority of us however, retinol provides a single incredible ingredient that smoothes skin, boosts collagen, reduces fine lines and speeds cell turnover to even out discoloration. Truly a friend in the fight against eye ageing.
*Bellemere G. et
al.Antiaging action of Retinol: From molecular to clinical. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2009; 22:200-209.
Sally Penford is EducationManager for The
International Dermal Institute. For more information, telephone 08000 564 544 or visit
www.dermalinstitute.co.uk
GUILD NEWS 69
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