January 2011:Facing Pages 14/12/10 13:21 Page 65
skin smart
the future of exfoliation?
David Suzuki explores the concept ofHydrodermabrasion
Since the time of the ancient Egyptians who used the sand of the desert to help restore the appearance of youth, it has long been known that exfoliation of the outer most layer of the skin is key to unlocking the beauty within.
Today there are countless ways to achieve a good exfoliation ranging fromdaily scrubs and peels, tomore invasivemedical chemical and laser procedures. In the early 90s Microdermabrasion entered the skin caremarket with great force and intrigue as it was really the first technology based exfoliation process that was assertive, if not aggressive, yet safe and applicable for use by the skin therapist without the oversight of a physician.
trend turned tradition
The concept ofMicrodermabrasion is really quite simple in that it is a closed loop vacuumsystem, not so different than your standard home vacuum
cleaner.At the epicenter of the technology is a vacuumpump with the aspiration level being controlled by the
operator.The opening in the Microdermabrasion hand piece is where the suction loop is ‘broken’. This is the exact same concept as a
vacuumcleaner in that the suction loop is ‘broken’ at the opening at the bottomwhere the brushes are located. As the brushes come in contact with the carpet, and the intensity of the vacuumseals the loop of suction (opening with the carpet), everything that is propelled fromthe brushes as well as any other loose debris can be intensely and thoroughly swept away.
Microdermabrasion has one difference in that in lieu of spinning brushes, when the hand piece comes in contact with the skin closing the vacuumloop, the systempulls corundumcrystals through the tubing systemand performs whatmight be considered a formof aesthetic sand blasting of the skin, which helps deepen and intensify the exfoliation
process.The spent crystals and skin debris are then collected in a disposable canister and disposed of, again very similar to a standard vacuumcleaner.
bring on the benefits
There aremany exciting benefits that may be achieved with Microdermabrasion, the first being themost obvious; a thorough removal of the loose and thicker areas of the
stratumcorneum.This in itself stimulates cellular turnover, diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, helps to decongest, and completely prepares the skin for further technology services and uninhibited product penetration. In addition, the vacuumstimulation
independent of the corundumcrystals has been proven to enhance blood circulation, creating a better and healthier skin texture and tone, as well as stimulate collagen synthesis, both leading to immediate and long term results.
One of the keys to the success of Microdermabrasion and its safety is that the abrasion depth can be completely controlled by the vacuum level of the
device.This is not to say that the number of passes or frequency of services are not factors of safety and results, only that the vacuumpressure during the application is the primary determining factor of abrasion depth, opposed to the physical pressure of the skin therapist’s hand piece.
innovations in exfoliation
Over the last 20 years, a few innovations havemade their way on to themarket as alternatives to Microdermabrasion. One is the concept of ‘crystal-less’
Microdermabrasion.The closed loop vacuumsystemis identical, however the hand piece, essentially a hollow tube, contains industrial diamond or aluminumoxide crystals permanently embedded on the rimof the hand piece.
Although this concept is interesting and tidy comparatively to propelling corundumcrystals on to the skin, it relies on the pressure of the hand
GUILD NEWS 65
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96