SUNDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2010
KLMNO GOINGOURWAY First trip to Japan: Get up and go BY CAROL SOTTILI Japan is a fine choice for a first
trip to Asia, especially for those, like Meghan Lyon and Vaughn Stewart of Durham, N.C., who’d rather travel independently. The country’s transit system, though complicated, is fast and efficient; English-language guided day tours and audio tours are com- monplace; and detailed, accurate travel information is readily available from the Japanese Na- tional Tourism Organization (
www.japantravelinfo.com). Early March, when Lyon and Stewart want to travel, is cool, with daytime temperatures in the 50s, but Tokyo’s blossoming plum and apricot trees will hint of spring. It’s a good thing that the
couple has 10 days, as the 14- to 16-hour flight and the 14-hour time difference are likely to cause some serious jet lag. But having the flight’s cost, typically at least $1,000 round trip, covered by frequent-flier miles may help ease the pain. Transportation will take a
chunk out of the budget. The Japan Rail Pass would allow flexibility, but it is pricey: A 14-day pass costs about $500 per person. Traveling between Tokyo and Kyoto, it’s cheaper to buy separate tickets, but if you follow the itinerary below, the cost will still run at least $330 round-trip per person before adding intra- city transport charges.
Tokyo Hotels in the city are expen-
sive. Instead, consider staying at a ryokan, a Japanese guesthouse. These traditional inns were once associated with resort areas, but there are now inexpensive modern versions in many larger cities. Rates vary tremendously and can get quite pricey, but a decent ryokan in Tokyo, such as Annex Katsutaro (www.katsu-
taro.com), can be had for about $130 a night. Annex Katsutaro is in the historic Yanaka neighbor- hood of northern Tokyo, within walking distance of the JR Nip- pori Station; fromNarita airport,
the express Skyliner train (
www.keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetu- dou/skyliner/us) travels there in less than 40 minutes for about $14. For other ryokan choices, consult the Japanese Inn Group (
www.japaneseinngroup.com), the Welcome Inn Reservation Center (
www.itcj.jp/eng) or the Japan Ryokan Association (
www.ryokan.or.jp). Figure on spending four
nights in Tokyo, which will allow three days of sightseeing. Tokyo Metro (
www.tokyometro.jp/en) offers all-day unlimited-ride tick- ets starting at about $8.60. Among the many not-to-be-
missed sites and activities: l The Ginza, an upscale shop-
ping hub, which also offers gal- leries, theaters and restaurants. For inexpensive yakitori, try Tori- gin restaurant near the Sony building. l Asakusa, a historic area of
Tokyo and home to the city’s oldest Buddhist temple, the Sen- so-ji (also called the Asakusa Kannon Temple). The area also offers open-air shopping. l Suntory Museum of Art,
with a collection of more than 3,000 Japanese articles, includ- ing paintings, ceramics, lacquer- ware, glass and textiles. l The Imperial Palace, home
of the royal family. The buildings are not open to visitors, but the gardens are public. Guided tours of the inner grounds are offered, but must be booked in advance via
sankan.kunaicho.go.jp. lMeiji Shrine, dedicated to
the first emperor of modern Japan, and the adjacent Yoyogi Park. l Ueno Park, home to a zoo
and many museums, including the Tokyo National Museum and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Mu- seum. l Ghibli Museum, a must-see
for any anime fan. The museum, which is outside Tokyo inMitaka (accessible via the JR Chuo sub- way line), is owned by famous anime creator Hayao Miyazaki. Tickets, which cost about $12, must be purchased in advance online at
www.ghibli-museum. jp/en. Another option is to take a few
organized tours. Tokyo SGG Club (
www2.ocn.ne.jp/~sgg/guide. html), a volunteer organization, offers free walking tours of Sen- so-ji and Ueno Park. Viator (
www.viator.com) offers several dozen English-speaking tours, including a full-day Tokyo tour for about $117 per person and a tour of the Ghibli Museum for about $72. Tip: Save money on food by
eating at the myriad yakitori stalls, soba noodle shops and izakayas (beer bars that serve food—look for the red lanterns). For more sightseeing options
and details, contact Tokyo Tour- ism Info (
www.tourism.metro.
tokyo.jp).
Hakone National Park Split the hectic city visits with
a night in a rural guesthouse that offers hot spring baths. Fuji-Ha- kone Guest House (hakone.
syuriken.jp/hakone), in the re- sort town of Sengokuhara, is a convenient bus ride from the Odawara train station; rates are about $170 a night. The park (
www.hakone.or.jp)
offers hiking, views of Mount Fuji, botanical gardens, cruises on Lake Ashi and the Hakone Museum of Art. The Hakone Freepass
FAMILY PHOTO
Who: Meghan Lyon and her husband, Vaughn Stewart, both 26, of Durham, N.C. Where: Japan, including Tokyo, Kyoto and perhaps one more destination Why: A first trip to Asia When: Ten days in early March Budget: $2,500, not including air ticket (covered with frequent-flier miles)
“We’re interested in exploring neighborhoods, shopping for handmade crafts, trying new foods, and visiting museums. We want to see the Ghibli Museum. I’d also like to see Japan’s natural side, and maybe do some hiking or hot- springing.”
street lined with more than 100 shops selling sushi, sweets, pick- les, seafood, etc. l Sanjusangen-do,
(
www.odakyu.jp/
english/freepass/hakone_01. html), which costs about $46, allows access to seven types of transport in the region.
Kyoto FromOdawara, take the bullet
train (Shinkansen Hikari) to Kyoto. Again, the best bet is to stay in a ryokan.Ryokan Shimizu (www.
kyoto-shimizu.net), located less than a 10-minute walk from Kyoto Station, has private baths and rates of about $120 a night. An all-day transport pass good for trains and buses costs about $14. Kyoto, famous for its temples
and shrines, was the capital of Japan for more than 1,000 years. Thirteen temples, three shrines and Nijo Castle are all registered as world heritage sites. Places to see include: l The Gion District, best
known as Rengeo-in, a temple famous for its 1,001 statues of Senju Kannon-zo, the goddess of mercy. For more sightseeing options
and details, contact Kyoto tour- ism (
www.pref.kyoto.jp/visit kyoto/en). After three nights, take a bul-
let train—ShinkansenNozomi is fastest but is not included in the Japan Rail Pass — back to Tokyo Station and then the Narita Ex- press train (
www.jreast.co.jp/e/ nex) to Narita Airport. Total Cost: Budget at least
FOCUSJAPAN/ALAMY Alarge lantern marks the Senso-ji temple in Tokyo’sAsakusa area.
walked in the evening when kimono-clad geishas andmaikos, or geisha trainees, stroll the area. l The Golden Pavilion, also
known as Kinkakuji, a three- tiered Zen temple whose two top
floors are covered in gold leaf. l Kyoto Handicraft Center, a
collection of shops that sell ev- erything from lacquerware to swords. l Nishiki Food Market, a
$800 for transportation within Japan. Lodging will run about $1,170, leaving about $650 for food and sightseeing. If spending less than $100 a day seems too confining, stay only three nights in Tokyo or plan on eating a lot of ramen.
Interested in having us help plan your trip? Go to
washingtonpost.com/ goingourway.
EZ EE
F3
also
CLICKIT Paris? Right this way . . . It’s no surprise that one of the
most useful and appealing iPad travel apps to come along would be fromDK Publishing. The com- pany’s Eyewitness Travel Guides long ago set the standard for visu- ally oriented guidebooks, so it’s the perfect match for the iPad’s high-resolution display and intui- tivedesign. The first appina series,Eyewit-
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DK EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
andstart finding yourway around inreal space. Naturally, that function doesn’t
work when your real-world loca- tionisWashington.Ordoesit?The app doesn’t let you book a flight, but there are plenty of otherways todo that.
—JoeYonan
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