Tom Sietsema Dining
★ ★ (Good)
Jackie’s 8081 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring. 301-565-9700. jackies
restaurant.com
Owner Jackie Greenbaum, left, and chef Diana Dávila-
Boldin help set Jackie’s apart.
Six-year-old Jackie’s
teenager. Even so, it still feels like a secret every time I turn off busy Georgia Avenue, veer onto relatively quiet Sligo Avenue and spot the low-slung brick exterior of what used to be an auto parts shop, now radiating the amber and pink of jazz clubs and speakeasies from behind its windows. To ward off drafts, a faux-fur curtain hides the heavy front door in cold weather and only adds to Jackie’s magnetism. Inside is a place to eat and drink that sets itself apart from the
I
hot spots of Washington with a groovy style sense that’s one part “Mod Squad” and another part industrial chic. The fabrics on the booths hugging the brick walls appear to have been lifted from the closets of Carol Brady and Farrah Fawcett’s Jill Munroe; a scrim between the bar and dining area is animated with DVDs that take you underwater, into space or on a drive through the Irish countryside. Hustling around the room is a happy hipster with hair that appears to have been whipped up with an eggbeater (and is known to change hue with frequency). She is Jackie Greenbaum,
is still in the pink Eatery retains old charms with new chef
f I lived closer and my job didn’t involve chasing new restaurants and keeping tabs on old ones, Jackie’s would see a lot more of me. The Silver Spring retreat has been open for six years; by industry standards, that makes Jackie’s a
the muse behind the marquee and part of the fun of an evening here. There’s another woman here
you should get to know. She’s Diana Dávila-Boldin, 28, who replaced Frank Morales in the open kitchen in April. My first dinner on her watch, in July, was a disappointment brought about by tough empanadas filled with raw-tasting summer squash and dry meatloaf with (better) Indian-spiced vegetables. It must have been an off night, however, because subsequent meals this fall reveal a chef who can knock some balls out of the park. Her variety is welcome, too. If one chooses, a diner can start with skewered shrimp that would taste at home in a Thai restaurant (well, save for their fluffy bed of quinoa laced with cilantro) and move on to dishes that weave Indian or Mexican accents onto the plates. That’s your cue to skip the ordinary beet (Continued on Page 32)
open: Dinner 5:30 to 9 p.m. Monday (cafe menu only), 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; brunch Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Major credit cards.
Metro: Silver Spring.
prices: Appetizers $7 to $12, entrees $16 to $28.
sound cHeck: 69 decibels/ Conversation is easy.
good neigHbors
Jackie Greenbaum and business partner Patrick Higgins also own the nearby Quarry House Tavern.
tom sietsema chats live at 11 a.m. on Wednesdays. Join him and find videos, blog posts and more at washingtonpost. com/
tomsietsema. December 12, 2010 | The WashInGTOn POsT MaGazIne 31
PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT SUCHMAN
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