tickets with the backs and fronts each on their own layers, then I added a layer with ticket numbers at the right size and in the right position, then I duplicated the number layer many times, and changed the numbers on each successive layer so that the individual numbers layers could be turned on for printing, and turned off while the next set of numbers was turned on and printed. This kept me from having to make up a whole new document for each set of ticket num- bers, or duplicating the layer with all the rest of the artwork for the sides with the numbers. Keeping my document/file size smaller, and letting me
tweak or correct anything on the basic artwork on just one layer rather than having to redo every single document or layer that would have used it. This kept all of my artwork for this project in one document, and it let me save the basic artwork and numbering setup for the next time this event takes place. Though it does mean that the actual tickets need to be printed out by someone with Illustrator who ei- ther knows how to use it, or who can take instructions. The artwork here shows the basic menu for Layers in CS
3, but the basic layout has remained the same from version 8 of Illustrator to the current version of CS5. Using Command –Y on a Mac, or Control-Y on a PC you will toggle the whole visible document between Preview (a full showing of artwork) and Outline. Holding down the Com- mand key (Mac) or the Control key (PC) and clicking on the Eyeball in a Layer on the Layer menu will toggle that individu- al layer between Preview and Outline. Note that regardless of whether you have a layer or the document as a whole in Outline mode it will still print normally, the outline mode only effects what you are seeing on screen. Just clicking on the square with your cursor will toggle
the layer between being visible or not. Clicking on the sec- ond block will toggle back and forth between the layer being locked or not locked. Locking a layer keeps you from adding, deleting, or altering anything on that layer. You can double click on a Layer in the Layer menu, or go to
the small lined square in the upper right hand corner of the Layer menu to get to the Options for the currently selected Layer, here you can change the layer name, the Layer Color, you can Lock or Unlock the Layer, you can set the Layer to Preview or Outline, or choose whether you want the Layer to be printable. You can change the order of layers by clicking and drag-
ging the Layers to their desired order within the Layer Menu. Objects in the upper layers will cover the items di- rectly behind them in the lower Layers. Do some playing with the Layers and their options, our next article will involve the use of the Layers Menu, Locking items or objects down, the Pen/Path tool, the Reflect tool, the Text tool, and the Ellipse tool.
In the example pictures above I’m using Slick Sand on a helmet where I removed a sticker that was under the clear coat. In the first picture you can see the tube of the MEKP activator and a quart of Slick Sand. Be sure to have the store where you purchase the Slick Sand put it on the shaker as settles badly when it sits; this stuff is a monster to mix by hand. I’ve successfully reduced this with Ure- thane reducer as much as 30 to 40% at which point it flows very well thru most airbrushes. In picture two I’ve sanded down thru the clear coat on the helmet to remove the sticker. 320 grit worked fine and Slick Sand fills the scratches with no problem, it fact it will fill areas sanded with 80 grit sandpaper if need be. In picture three the sanded area has been sprayed with Slick Sand, several light coats with about ten minutes between coats. Allow the Slick Sand to dry 24 hours before sanding and appling a base coat. I’ve used this stuff on entire cars with great results also. Give Evercoat Slick sand a try I believe you’ll find it easy to use and get great results like I have.
EVERCOAT SLICK SAND
“A high-solids, extra high-build polyester based primer sur- facer that offers excellent adhesion to metal, galvanized metal, aluminum, wood, fiberglass, SMC, and body filler. Ideally suited for large uneven surfaces. MEKP activator included.” If you work with small objects like helmets and tanks, fenders you’ll find Evercoat Slick Sand to be a very handy product. I’ve been using it for about two years with great results on all types of surfaces; fiberglass, helmets, sheet metal to name just a few. For those of us who work on small objects the nice thing about Slick Sand is you can re- duce it, shoot it thru your airbrush and still experience the high build to cover imperfections. I have used an Eclipse BCS, HP-CS and VL all with great success spraying re- duced Evercoat.
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