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cosmeticsbusiness.com TEXTURE INGREDIENTS
THE ELEMENT OF SURPISE
While texture has always been of importance to the cosmetics industry, transformational, experiential products that surprise and delight can elevate your product offer above the competition, as John Woodruff explains
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sustainable products, we are now seeing items that are transformed at the point of use. This article will look at some of the ingredients that make surprising textures.
C
IFF-Lucas Meyer names products that change form ‘chameleon textures’ and defines them as innovative textures to meet consumers’ expectations in terms of surprise as they change state or colour upon application or with water. In its brochure, ‘Abracadabra’, available online, it shows products already marketed that are foams-to-oil, gel-to-oil, clay-to-foam and black-ink- to-white-emulsion, and presents some example formulations.
A gel-to-milk cleanser with an oil-in-glycerin texture is readily applied to skin and rinsed with water when it transforms to a fluid milk. It comprises approximately 80% glycerin, 16% oils and the gelling agent is Lecigel (INCI: Sodium acrylates polymer, lecithin).
Other example formulae from IFF-Lucas Meyer include a mask that creates a film, which turns into pilling with a soft exfoliating action when massaged into the skin. The magic ingredient is Ecogel (INCI: Lysolecithin, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, pullen).
There is a quick-break cream, again based on Lecigel, which breaks on contact with the salts in skin to give a light and refreshing sensation. Lecigel is also used to provide a powder-to-foam cleanser that contains Matipure Oil Free, which enables liquid active ingredients to appear in
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osmetics have always been about texture; if a cosmetic is not pleasant to apply it will soon be abandoned. However, partly driven by the wish to supply more
anhydrous products by adsorption onto its porous microparticle complex (INCI: Magnesium aluminium silicate, hydroxyethylcellulose, phospholipids).
FORMULA METAMORPHOSIS Clariant uses the term ‘metamorphosis’ in its brochure on surprising textures and claims it is a synergistic effect between nature and technology, allowing for extraordinary texture transformations within the same product that surprise and indulge the senses.
Clariant describes a body care balm that, once applied on skin, disappears almost instantly and turns into a powder. The formula contains approximately 40% oils, 42% silicone derivatives, 8% modified corn starch and 4% talc. Another body care product appears as an oil but instantly turns into a white opaque lotion on contact with water. The brochure also shows a formula for a face care lotion that is fluid at room temperature but turns into a thick emulsion once it reaches skin temperature. For hair, it suggests a clear oily treatment as a pre-shampoo or overnight hair care treatment, that reveals an extraordinary opalescent veil once rinsed off.
In a similar vein, Clariant publishes ‘Playing with Beauty’, described as a new beauty care concept developed to initiate a true emotional experience for the user. It claims personal care routines can be transformed through a unique, interactive experience with the product.
Unexpected and distinctive physical application characteristics result in positive emotional reactions. Three specific application properties have been created for face, body and hair care.
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