INGREDIENTS TEXTURE
‘Solid cosmetics are on trend as consumers shy away from plastic packaging and look for a lower carbon footprint
Coatex publishes a formula for a bubble bath that has a jelly-like texture before addition to water. It comprises approximately 48% surfactants gelled with 6.3% Rheostyl 90 N (INCI: Acrylates/ beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer). Croda has produced a short video describing its
Transformative Multi-use Cleanser, which transforms from a gel to a milk in use. Based on Cithrol 10GTIS (INCI: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate) to emulsify oily grime for easy rinsing and OleoCraft HP-31(INCI: Polyamide-3) to give the formulation a gel-like structure, it also contains Lipexel (INCI: Ethylhexyl palmitate, Luffa cylindrica seed oil) to restore lost lipids and the skin’s barrier function. Phytessence Margosa, a mixture of limonoids, polyphenols and volatile cyclic sulphides with claimed antibacterial effects, completes the formulation.
SO SOLID CREW
The formula for body care provides a solid mouldable bar that foams on contact with water. For face care, two products are used: first a lemon mousse is applied, then a honey gel is layered on top. When the two are massaged together a soft creamy emulsion is created, which dries to a soft peel-off mask.
Many ingredient suppliers are developing formulations in their application laboratories that showcase their materials in surprising textures. Agrana Starch supplies customised starch products, which often feature in transforming cosmetics. It suggests a formula for a cream containing 20% Reisita Natural (INCI: Oryza sativar starch) that transforms into a blusher, leaving a powdery skin feel in use.
Lubrizol supplies a formulation for a facial moisturiser cream that transforms into an oil-like texture with a silky and slippery feel during application. The emulsifier is Pemulen EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier (INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer).
DKSH supplies a formula for a sunscreen cream that melts into a fluid on application. The principal emulsifier is Sensogel Novus (INCI: Hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, aqua, C15-23 alkane, decyl glucoside, C13-14 alkane, glycerin).
18 September 2022
Food-like textures, peel-off masks and surprising solid formats were among the concepts floated by ingredients providers at this year’s in-cosmetics Global event
Solid cosmetics are on trend as consumers shy away from plastic packaging and look for a lower carbon footprint. Being an anhydrous, solid product format means that in addition to water, many other ingredients become obsolete in formulation. Solid formats reduce waste as well as water consumption and fulfil convenience requirements by encompassing suitability for on-the-go use or utilising built-in applicators. Formulating solid cosmetics normally requires the use of pure ingredients in powder form or naturally anhydrous ingredients, such as butters, oils and waxes. However, JRS has developed a technology that can also be applied to shampoos, hair conditioners and shower gels. For a shampoo, a surfactant concentrate is prepared using either sodium laureth sulfate or coco-glucoside, which is then mixed with microcrystalline cellulose fibres and the mix dried at 60°C for 24 hours.
The moisture content is reduced to less than 1% and the product is milled down to a powder before being compacted into bars, tablets or granules. They are said to dissolve rapidly giving all the attributes of a normal shampoo. A guide to using the JRS technology for development purposes in the laboratory is available from Cornelius. It suggests blending all water-based surfactants and actives to form a concentrate in a mixer, adding the JRS fibre to the liquid concentrate and mixing until homogenous. This is then dried and milled. Feasibility studies have been undertaken on an industrial scale using a contact dryer to prove the method,
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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