TESTING FACIAL MAPS
Figure 3 Textured facial map of dry skin as in figure 2 with Skicon values with a full face image (left) and a close-up of the left cheek (right). The red colour gives the viewer the impression of irritated skin, although it is still a map of dry skin
Figure 2 Textured facial map displayed on an Asian average face before and after application of a moisturiser containing 3% Pentavitin (saccharide isomerate). a) Textured gradient that resolves gradually with increasing stratum corneum hydration (Skicon data).
we set a dense network for dry skin. This turns into a less dense network in hydrated skin, until it completely resolves in an ideal treatment. In addition to the organic nature of the grid, one of the highest technical added values of this new type of mapping is the possibility it gives to build a mesh where the pattern density is parametric and correlated to the quantitative entry data.
Reminiscent of colour maps, this gradient can also be adapted according to the measurement range and the colour of the network can be customised. We chose white as it most resembles what we see in dry skin. Red is also a possibility, although then the skin bears more resemblance to irritated skin than dry skin (figure 3). As an exemplary dataset to create the maps, we used data from a moisturiser study we conducted in China on Chinese subjects. They were treated with a formulation containing 3% Pentavitin for four weeks. We took face images with the VISIA CR device (Canfield Scientific, Parsippany, NJ, USA). Average faces[3]
were created with the
images of the 30 volunteers receiving the treatment. Skin hydration was determined on the 30 predefined spots (figure 1) at the baseline and at the end of the study using a Skicon 200EX device (I.B.S. Co, Hamamatsu, Japan)[6] measuring conductance in the stratum corneum.
CONCLUSION We developed a facial mapping technology beyond facial colour maps, called textured mapping, which will extend the possibilities for displaying changes in skin parameters, such as hydration or roughness, in an easy-to- understand way.
58 September 2022
A textured facial map offers new opportunities for claim substantiation for cosmetic applications
The higher the numbers the better hydrated the stratum corneum. b) Textured map on an average face in 45° angle displayed at D0 (top) and after four weeks of the moisturising treatment (bottom). c) Close-up of the cheek of the D0 (top) and four-week timepoint (bottom). The network/mesh resembling very dry skin (Skicon values below 130) on the cheek and the chin clearly fades with increasing skin hydration to present as well hydrated skin (Skicon values above 140) for the cheek and very well hydrated skin (Skicon values above 200) for the area around the eyes
Like colour maps, these textured maps can be customised for gradient, colour, or the visible intensity of the network.
Additionally, the textured network on a natural skin colour produces a highly realistic visualisation of dry skin and its moisturisation
Authors Remo Campiche & Mathias Gempeler, DSM Nutritional Products
www.dsm.com
Thibault Vergne, Marie Cherel & Ghislain François, Newtone Technologies
References 1. Voegeli, R, et al., A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2015. 37(6): p. 595-605.
2. Voegeli, R, et al., Facial skin mapping:
from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2019. 41: p. 411-424.
3. Seroul, P, et al., An image-based mapping of significance and relevance of facial skin colour changes of females living in Thailand. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2020. 42(1): p. 99-107.
4. Sfriso, R, et al., 5-alpha reductase inhibition by Epilobioum fleischeri extract modulates facial microbiota structure. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2022.
5. Ito, Y, Voronoi Tessellation., in Encyclopedia of Applied and Computational Mathematics., B Engquist, Editor. 2015, Springer: Berlin, Heidelberg. p. 1546-1547. 6. O’Goshi, K and J Serup, Skin conductance; validation of Skicon- 200EX compared to the original model, Skicon-100. Skin Res Technol, 2007. 13(1): p.13-8.
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