INGREDIENTS TEXTURE
‘The
homemade cosmetics trend has seen a resurgence
and production on spray dryers and fluidised bed dryers might also be possible. SimplySolid is the name given by Aprinnova to its solid format ingredient that allows the easy creation of numerous solid product formats. It incorporates Neossance Squalane and Hemisqualane in a proprietary polymer system in solid form.
Safic-Alcan has produced a webinar available on request called ‘Creating solid cosmetics with SimplySolid from Aprinnova’ in which Beth Unsworth from the application laboratory describes formulations that she has created using the SimplySolid technology.
Stephenson Personal Care is well known for its soap bases and is now actively promoting solid personal care products. Stephenson claims that with a growing consumer demand for more environmentally-friendly products, no single-use plastics and reduced water content, solid formats are the future.
It has been working to create a revolutionary syndet base that is both versatile enough for multiple applications and capable of running on an existing soap manufacturing line. Through this innovation Stephenson claims to have supported brands worldwide to diversify into the solid format market.
The base is trade named Syndopal 300-MB and is described as an ultra-mild syndet base made with RSPO mass balance palm ingredients. Its sustainable solid format base is offered as the starting point for personal care products. Comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate and polyglyceryl-4 laurate with hydrogenated vegetable oil, glycerin and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate in pellet form, it can be mixed with perfume and other additives to form a shiny, smooth bar that holds its shape. Suggested applications range from baby cleansers to premium perfume bars, deodorising sports bars and a skin moisturising bar.
GETTING CONSUMERS TO DIY At in-cosmetics Global 2022, Seppic presented Cosmetic Mixology, a duo of robust and sensorial formulas in the trend of homemade cosmetics. Seppic suggested that consumers are looking for transparency and simplicity, and that the homemade cosmetics trend has seen a resurgence
of interest especially in cosmetics with a wellness dimension. In response, Seppic launched a Blend it Yourself concept that is safe and fun for consumers. With a choice of two bases, Seppic claims a simplified and safer customisation solution for consumers who are not always aware about the risks and constraints of homemade cosmetics formulations. One base provides a gel-cream product, described as a solid pebble to rehydrate, forming a fresh gel with a light touch. Its principal ingredients are Solagum Tara and Sepimax Zen polymers, which form a fresh, watery gel-cream and strengthen the formula’s resistance to electrolyte-rich actives. Three additional ingredients are included: Emogreen L19 is C15-19 alkane and an emollient for sensory comfort; Sepifine BB, a texturising agent to provide softness; and Aquaxyl, an essential sugar-based moisturising agent. Solagum Tara is a pure non-ionic tara gum with thickening capability for medium to thick consistencies. This 100% natural origin polymer is suitable for all cosmetic applications and offers immediate hydration in water enabling cold process formulation. Sepimax Zen (INCI: Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6) forms clear aqueous gels that are electrolyte resistant up to 10%. Sepifine BB is a starch-based ingredient with high oil-absorbing properties and Aquaxyl (INCI: Xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol) is aimed at skin and scalp hydration.
The second base is a strong emulsion in cream form using the same ingredients.
Stephenson has created product bases to enable simplified formulation by the addition of perfume, actives and marketing aids, such as botanicals. It includes a body butter base, emulsions for lotions and creams and a foaming bath butter. This latter item is named as Crystal OPC and is a soap-free base for making mild face and body cleansing applications, such as sugar scrubs, bath butters and soap frostings. It can be personalised by adding up to 2% of essential oils, fragrances or other additives and can be used for home-based formulation, bespoke contract manufacture or rapid brand development.
The waterless trend and home-based customised formulation are the inspiration behind Pearls of Wisdom from Univar. It has created a concentrated anhydrous formula that consumers can turn into a creamy emulsion by mixing with water at the time of use. The formula is built around an emulsifying base called Danox HC-30 (INCI: Behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dipalmitoylethyl
hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetyl alcohol) by Kao Chemicals and Colonial Monolaurin MB (INCI: Glyceryl laurate) by Colonial Chemicals as a co-emulsifier that promotes the penetration of actives and enhances the aesthetics of formulations. Boosters, including cocoa butter, jojoba oil and additional conditioning agents, are available from Univar, which consumers can add to customise the formulation
20 September 2022
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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