INGREDIENTS PORE MINIMISING
It is an innovative complex based on a biomimetic source of energy and key amino acids to address and effectively counteract the biological phenomena of parakeratosis and skin fragility, whilst working to tackle enlarged pores. Clinical tests have demonstrated a significant reduction of pore size within just two weeks for all volunteers, regardless of age range.
Sederma, PoreTect
(INCI: Caprylic/capric triglyceride, sorbitan trioleate, Apium graveolens seed extract, Linum usitatissimum seed extract)
Pores are held together by connective tissue sheaths which loosen with age and sag causing enlarged pores and skin that has lines and wrinkles. PoreTect works to reinforce these structures that consist mainly of collagen I and elastin, and encourages firmness, tone and density of the skin.
This ingredient is a green, innovative solution that enhances the cellular metabolism and thus the production of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin, which are involved in the dermis structure and help to maintain the pore shape and counteract cutaneous pore enlargement related to ageing. It is able to provide skin texture rejuvenation and moderate sebum production, making the pores less conspicuous.
Exsymol, Adenosilane
At the level of the dermis, the connective tissue sheath (CTS) sees a decline in collagen production as we age and this can be attributed to an increase in the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs, enzymes involved in fibre degradation). Exsymol has identified a new marker, MAGP-1 (microfibril-associated glycoprotein-1), a glycoprotein which, alongside collagen and elastin, helps to provide structure to the CTS whose expression is reduced.
Due to ageing and the exposome, the CTS structure is degraded, resulting in pore enlargement which equals greater visibility. Adenosine is obtained biotechnologically through fermentation and Adenosilane is a silanol of adenosine. When applied topically, it has a specific action on the CTS whose function of holding the pore tight is disrupted. It stimulates the production of collagen, elastin and MAGP-1 and, as a result, restores the CTS, creating resilience and recovery of the pore elasticity, while optimising its mechanism to allow it to support the pore structure once again. Ex vivo analysis has shown an increase in the expression of collagen I by 45%, elastin by 200% and MAGP-1 by 56%, meaning that pores are tightened and become less visible.
Naolys, Refine Ginger
(INCI: Zingiber officinale leaf cell extract) We know that the CTS structure sags due to a decline in its protein constituents. Refine Ginger stimulates the production of fibres and the
26 September 2022
components of the extracellular matrix to increase the production of elastin for greater skin elasticity. In order to prevent the formation of blackheads, Refine Ginger is able to reduce oxidation of the sebum and keratin in the pore by decreasing lipid peroxidation. Studies were conducted and results showed 80% of women reported tightened pores and 85% of women reported more refined skin texture.
It also increases the production of the supporting proteoglycans for greater firmness and improves structural support to enable pores to close more easily. Refine Ginger acts on both the dermis and the epidermis, at the source of the pores and rebalances their environment, so as to restore smoother, more uniform skin.
NO ONE SOLUTION
In order for skin to look, function and remain healthy, efficacious skin care packed with wonderful active ingredients will always be required. Visible pores are a major concern among many consumers since they become larger and longer as we age, with several pores eventually connecting to form long cavities that appear as wrinkles as a result of the structural changes which occur. Other factors
Visible pores are a major concern
among many consumers since they become larger and longer as we age
alongside natural ageing can trigger premature ageing and contribute to the appearance of pores, making them more noticeable.
UV radiation has been shown to have a negative effect on pore size coupled with lifestyle choices; smoking is said to have detrimental damage to the skin.
The science behind enlarged pores is multifaceted and complex; there is not one reason why they happen and there is no simple solution to resolve them. Previously, obtaining reliable literature detailing the efficacy of various treatments in reducing facial skin pores has been challenging given that most studies lack control groups and do not use standardised reporting methods. However, companies such as the ones mentioned here have the technology to undertake their own research and have reported some promising results which indicate that topical treatments have proven benefits in facial pore reduction.
Pore refining skin care is in high demand and with the continued adaptations of biotechnology, we are likely to see more ingredients targeted towards this topic
cosmeticsbusiness.com
Zingiber officinale leaf cell extract, sold by Naolys as Refine Ginger, targets both skin sagging and oxidation of sebum and keratin in the pore for less visible looking pores
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