HOW TO INVISIBLE SHIELD
How to... MAKE AN
INVISIBLE SHIELD
Igor Chernyak discusses creating a transparent shield adapted to even the most sensitive skins
Igor Chernyak, Senior International Product Manager, EviDenS de Beauté
Drawing on both its French and Japanese roots, EviDenS de Beauté blends the excellence of the former with the sophistication of the latter. Inspired by the sensitive beauty of his wife, Eriko, entrepreneur Charles-Édouard Barthes designed a line of luxury beauty products and their accompanying rituals at the crossroads of two worlds – the Japanese spirit of perfection and the hedonistic art de vivre of French women. EviDenS de Beauté collaborates with leading laboratories in Japan in order to create high end products and overcome challenges related to formulation. One of EviDenS de Beauté’s missions is to create products adapted to the Japanese skin culture and Japanese consumers’ needs. Japanese skins have a really thin corneal layer and are considered one of the most sensitive skins in the world. Thus, thanks to its Japanese roots, EviDenS de Beauté can be claimed as one of the leaders in terms of product formulation and tolerance on the luxury anti-ageing market.
One of our iconic products is The Total Shield SPF50-PA++++. It took almost three years to create and the main challenge was achieving an ultra-light and ‘invisible’ texture. It’s not a secret that it is incredibly laborious to create a product containing SPF50 or SPF50+ sun protection and, at the same time, having a light texture with a non-sticky finish and without leaving white stains on the skin. The key to the formulation is related to our Japanese know-how and, in particular, to the expertise of our Research & Development Director, Maasaki Ishibashi, who was able to overcome this formulation obstacle. Firstly, the formula uses a mixture of physical and chemical filters, which means that the product both absorbs and deflects the sun’s rays from the skin. These filters are combined with the latest generation volatile silicones. Acting in synergy, that symbiosis of sun filters and silicones helps achieve the utmost efficacy and light texture. Hence, The Total Shield melts upon contact with the skin. After application, the skin is soft with no visible shine. Secondly, it all is about a perfect cohesion of the
50 September 2022
sun filters, cautiously measured by our experts. This part of the formulation cannot be revealed. Moreover, according to current trends for multifunctional SPF products, they should not only protect the skin from sun exposure but also have skin care benefits. Hence, it was essential for us to enrich our formula with powerful ingredients while keeping the texture as light as a veil. Also, it is important to showcase that since we are continuously trying to use nano-encapsulated active ingredients, the textures of our formulas will offer an unforgettable sensorial experience. Regarding the anti-ageing efficacy of The Total Shield, we enhanced its formula with triple collagen, our star active ingredient. This one-of-a- kind ingredient contains three synchronised collagen molecules of different sizes. The variation in size targets the different layers of the epidermis, correcting and reducing the appearance of signs of ageing while refining skin texture. It boosts cell regeneration and visibly improves the skin’s hydration and elasticity. Anti-blue light and anti-infrared efficacy is achieved by mixing knotweed extract and the mineral sun filter zinc oxide. Finally, the formula contains vitamins E and B3 to protect the skin from premature signs of ageing caused by pollution and light
The Total Shield SPF50-PA++++’s symbiosis of sun filters and silicones helps achieve the utmost efficacy and light texture
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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