INGREDIENTS PORE MINIMISING
such as acne, inadequate protection from the sun or clogged pores.
TYPES OF VISIBLE PORE
Open pores can be classified into the following three types: Y-shaped pores: These pores are shaped like water droplets and can most commonly be found on the cheeks. The causes of these pores are mainly due to reduced skin elasticity as we age and reduced skin density, which has a gravitational effect on the skin. O-shaped pores: These are round-shaped pores which appear around the T-zone of our face. The likely causes of these pores are due to increased sebum production and dilation of pores due to inflammation and acne. O-shaped pores are very common for individuals with a particularly oily skin type.
U-shaped pores: These are oval-shaped pores, which tend to be the most visible type of open pores on our skin. They are common among people with dry, dehydrated skin and are most likely caused by reduced skin elasticity particularly due to skin dehydration.
Clogged, enlarged and visible pores are a major concern for many people who turn to skin care products with the aim of alleviating their pore-related issues.
Since pores are part of the skin structure, we know we cannot remove them, but thanks to some innovative ingredients, we can formulate products to improve the appearance of the pores and help to restore skin texture.
COSMETIC PORE REDUCERS
Mastic is a resin which was recognised in ancient times for its therapeutic properties. Mastic trees secrete their resin when the bark is scratched, but they only do this in the Greek island of Chios, most likely due to the soil and warm, dry conditions. For this reason, it has been granted protected designation of origin (PDO).
Mastic is extremely sticky and it has poor solubility in water; in the past, this presented some challenges when attempts were made to formulate with it.
Mibelle Biochemistry has been able to develop a technique to make water-soluble mastic
Mibelle Biochemistry, PoreAway (INCI: Pistacia lentiscus gum, lecithin, glycerin, alcohol, aqua) PoreAway visibly reduces the appearance of pores whilst working against excess sebum secretion, blemishes and clogged pores. In doing this, it is able to manage skin imperfections effectively while simultaneously improving skin hydration thus creating a smooth, matte skin finish. Studies were conducted and results showed that
PoreAway significantly refined pores by more than 8% after 14 days and by almost 15% after 28 days.
Mibelle Biochemistry, NovoRetin (INCI: Pistacia lentiscus gum, lecithin, pentylene glycol, glyceryl caprylate/caprate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, aqua)
NovoRetin is easy to formulate with and it offers an innovative, safe and stable alternative to retinol in skin formulations, as it boosts and enhances the levels of naturally-occurring retinoids in the skin. It visibly refines pores and blemishes, and improves skin elasticity and density, resulting in immediate lifting effects.
NovoRetin was studied and tested, and said to be able to significantly improve wrinkle depth by 14%, wrinkle length by 13.7% and skin roughness by 6.4%.
Other suppliers offering pore refining solutions include:
Givaudan, Cristalhyal e-Perfection (INCI: Bentonite, sodium hyaluronate) Cristalhyal e-Perfection is a sustainable and patented vectorised complex of bentonite clay and high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid (HA), which accesses deeper layers of the skin via electrical attraction, proving that it is possible for HMW HA to reach deep epidermal layers, which had previously seemed impossible. This results in long lasting hydration and mattifying effects, which show impressive and in-depth skin perfecting properties that are supported by clinical tests. Some of the results showed a decrease of fine lines in the crow’s feet area by 27.3% after one month and a mattifying effect, with a significant reduction of skin’s shininess by 27.4%.
Cristalhyal e-Perfection also acts as a sensorial booster which adds a luxurious skin feel to the formula.
Givaudan, Neoporyl
(INCI: Aqua, propanediol, sodium mannose phosphate, mannose, lysine, lactic acid, proline, copper sulfate)
Neoporyl is an active ingredient that reduces the size of enlarged pores by targeting the biological root causes of parakeratosis, which is the incomplete maturation of epidermal keratinocytes.
24 September 2022
Visible pores can be classified into y-shaped, due to reduced skin elasticity; o-shaped, due to excess sebum; and u-shaped, common among those with dehydrated skin
cosmeticsbusiness.com
preparations that are suitable for cosmetic applications in the form of the following ingredients.
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