TECHNIQUES
MATERIALS USED • Recycled fabrics • Silk taffeta • Ice wool • Buckram- blocked brim
• 1.2 mm and 0.8 mm wire
02
Interfacing Interface the base with ice wool (soft knitted interfacing) both on the RS and the WS to soften the brim.
04 03
Blocking the fabric Cut out a bias strip and stretch it over the brim and seam, using a straight plain seam at the back. Block two halves of the same shape of fabric with 2.5 cm seam allowance (if the fabric frays, you may need more).
Tip! Preparation is key to this style of finish. We all
want to find quick ways of doing something but this is the ultimate case of ‘the longest way is always the shortest way’.
Covering the right side of the brim Fold the fabric that you are using for the RS of the brim over the edge and the brim wire, anchoring and stabilising the fabric to the underside of the brim with an overstitch. Anchor the headfitting with a long back stitch.
05
Lining the wrong side of the brim Take the second piece of fabric and make sure that you have lined up all your centre marks with the underside of the brim. Folding a fabric hem, keep pinning this edge around until you are satisfied with the finish. For the next step, accurately measuring and accurately finding the brim edge on the underside fabric is crucial. Just being slightly out in measurements can make the lining pucker or be too tight.
06
Wiring the lining Take your piece of 0.8 wire and slide it under the lining edge. Pin it into place beside the RS brim edge wire.
Tip! 07
Accentuating the wire and sealing the lining Slip stitch the wired fabric through the wire edge and catch the hemmed fabric on the underside of the brim. Sew all the way around. Keep the stitches small and angle the needle through the wire-piped edge and back through the hem of the top fabric.
I always baste stitch the lining roughly 5 cm
away from the edge. This also holds the fabric into place,
and you can undo the tacking later. Never put in your headfitting ribbon until your brim edge is done.
The finished brim edge
In the next issue I will show tips and tricks about making a hat in straw.
february 2022 | 67
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