TECHNIQUES
n
towards the brim
Edging
The hem on a brim or a millinery piece is the most important finish on a hat. This could be an abrupt finish of the blocked material or a folded-over trim to match a customer’s attire. Finishes that blend and look like part of the design can be so effective or necessary to the shape, yet if there is the slightest mistake in size of wire or finish of brim edge, it is the one thing that will glaringly show up.
In this issue of the magazine, I pay tribute to all the vintage- style edges you can make. I have featured intricate and simple trims that you may want to use with felt, straw and fabric brim edges. We need to keep the traditional skills of millinery
alive and use them in our
future work. Proudly use them in your designs
and let’s see if these handmade hems make a comeback!
62 | the hat magazine #92 Tip!
Buying and using straws in a brim If the brim edge is frayed, you may need to sew the edge with a fold-over of the straw edge when attaching wire. Always try to buy straws with a good finished edge as it saves you time, money and work putting it right.
hems Vintage
by Denise Innes-Spencer Interfacing brim edge
How to stop your edges showing what’s underneath the trim When using any style of straw hood or a straw mat, you will get some lumps and bumps under any trim you cover it with. There are a few ways
of reducing the lumps and bumps. The method in this article is effective and has never failed to do the job. Interfacings are used for the edges that are damaged or need covering. They are great for binding hems, especially thick straws that could be sabutan thick weave, sisal straws, buckram or Dior/Paris net.
MATERIALS THAT CAN BE USED • Tarlatan (my personal preference) • Stayflex iron-on • Mull • Thin lightweight veiling • Organza or organdie
01
Cutting the tarlatan Cut a bias strip of fusible cotton or tarlatan 2.5 cm wide and with the circum ference of the brim edge plus 2.5 cm extra.
Example of covering a rough sisal straw edge
02
Covering the edge Then gently pull the tarlatan all the way round the brim edge, covering the wire and 0.5 cm of the brim. Sew down the binding on the edge with a tacking stitch.
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