Colour experiment notation chart
black). Once you have your colour set and basic equipment, set aside a little time to experiment and document to create a reference chart. CMYK colour charts are different from RGB colour charts! Currently, the most popular dyes are
grey and silver grey as a base or for mixing with other colours.
Storage Store powdered dye in a cool, dry, dark temperature-controlled place and keep well-labelled. Make up a set of stock solutions
for identical dyeing over an extended period of time and store in small jars. It is recommended to measure by weight (preferably metric), so your stock solution is consistent. Store in a small refrigerator not near food. Label well with dye type, colour and date. Acid dye can be stored for up to six months. Once mixed with water, acid dye will be prone to mould, which will make it smell. A splash of vinegar or citric acid will help prevent this. Fibre reactive dye should be used within a couple of weeks once mixed.
Bleach
To bleach is to remove colour by a chemical reaction, be that sun bleach, chlorine bleach or another bleaching agent (bleaching, discharge, and reduction agents are interchangeable terms). Although chlorine bleach may be the most accessible method to lighten or
Dharma neutral grey on wool and silk with cold water and soda ash
Jacquard acid dye experiment on silk with notation
remove colour, it is not always the best choice. In addition to chlorine bleach, we will explore two other discharge agents: thiourea dioxide and sodium hydrosulfite. Bleaching is a vital element of the
colouring process. It is used to take colour out for a truer colour, to undo a mistake like splashing dye on a client’s blouse, or as part of the design technique. Colour reduction technique is dependent on the fibre and source of the colour. There is a difference between removing the colour of brown wool versus white wool dyed brown. To remove wool’s natural colour, try a peroxide-based hair bleach like that which is found in your local pharmacy. When heat is used to bleach wool, the heat used must increase gradually and be treated gently to avoid felting. Dharma has a dye test chart on their
website that, although specific to their dye, gives a terrific idea on how different colours discharge differently.
Chlorine bleach Chlorine bleach is inexpensive and available at nearly every grocery store and pharmacy. While this is not required, chlorine bleach is most effective with heat. It is effective at removing colour but is hard on protein and synthetic fibres and is likely to cause damage. If wool is bleached with chlorine, it will
dissolve. However, bleach is a creative way you can alter feathers to create a ‘burnt’ feather. You put the feather in the bleach and check frequently as it dissolves the smallest fluffy bits and
with hot water and citric acid
Colour experiment using a resist to create a grid
barbules of the feather, leaving the quill and barbs resulting in a wispy-looking feather.
When bleach is used, the colours are not reduced at an equal rate. Yellows are discharged first, followed by red and finally blue. Unlike other discharge agents, chlorine bleach must be neutralised when you are done. It is recommended to rinse it in a slightly acidic bath or use a neutralising agent. Just washing may not remove bleach from the core of the fibre, and it will continue to degrade the fibre over time.
Thiourea dioxide Thiourea dioxide (aka thiox or spectralite) can be used on both cellulose and protein fibres. It is particularly good for use on fibre reactive dye. It can be used with soda ash, which makes it more effective for use on cellulose fibres, but it will damage wool.
The biggest issue with thiourea dioxide
is that not all dyes will discharge and it doesn’t work on natural hair colours.
Sodium hydrosulfite Sodium hydrosulfite is a reducing agent that is used as a non-aggressive alternative to bleach for removing dyed colour and for whitening antique textiles. It is used with soda ash and heat. Wool is weakened by the alkalinity, but it is less damaging than chlorine bleach. Wool bleached with sodium hydrosulfite may become more scratchy and will felt more quickly. Silk reacts better than wool
40°C dye bath
Dharma neutral grey on cotton muslin and jersey 65°C dye bath
36 | the hat magazine #92
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