TECHNIQUES


Before dyeing: silk abaca - vintage crin braid - sinamay - straw cloth - feather


After dyeing: all materials are dyed for the same period of time in the same warm acid dye bath


Fibre Materials come in three main categories for home and studio purposes: cellulose fibre, protein fibre, and synthetic fibre. This article will focus on cellulose and protein fibres. Elizabeth says: “Focus on fibre, not


fibre preparation. Wool is wool regardless of whether it is unspun roving or yarn.” When she answers calls from men asking how to dye their wool clothing ‘safety orange’ for hunting, she sends them to the wool dye tutorial on Dharma’s website. All wool is treated the same, regardless of its type or condition. Acid dye is used for protein fibres and


fibre reactive dye for cellulose fibres. Regenerated or chemically altered cellulose such as rayon can be dyed with the same methods as cellulose fibres. Using the appropriate dye allows more colour to be used, resulting in less environmentally damaging waste. Not all fibre in the same category take


colour the same because of their different chemical structures. Cotton has a hollow core and takes dye easily, whereas bast fibres like linen and hemp are higher in lignin and harder to dye as their structure is more protective and woodier.


Cellulose Cotton


Regenerated Cellulose


Linen (Flax) Lyocell (Tencel) Hemp Sisal


Acetate Triacetate Sinamay


* Requires, or can tolerate, special treatment


Silk, while it is a protein fibre, can be dyed with both acid and fibre reactive dyes. Nylon has a chemical structure similar to silk and can be dyed the same. Results can be less predictable with fibre reactive dyes though. Even if you have used a certain dye before,


testing is always essential. Make sure to view your tests under a full spectrum light or in daylight to get the most accurate read of the colour.


What is pH and


why is it important? Potential Hydrogen (pH) is the measure- ment of how much hydrogen is in a liquid and how active the hydrogen ion is. This is important when it comes to dyeing because it is one of the key components to how the dye bonds with the material. A good rule of thumb for dyeing is acid pH


for protein fibres and nylon, and alkaline pH for cellulose fibres.


Creating your own colours If you are just starting out, and want a basic set of dye colours, many vendors will have starter sets. For advanced home dyeing, select colours like an inkjet printer using CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow and


Protein


Rayon/Viscose Wool Silk*


Feather Fur


Pearl


Synthetic Polyester


Spandex Lycra


Gore-Tex Nylon*


Acids


vinegar/ acetic acid


tartaric acid/cream of tartar


lemon juice


Alkali (Bases)


household ammonia


baking soda /sodium bicarbonate


washing soda/soda ash/sodium carbonate


Burnt ostrich feather after chlorine bath


february 2022 | 35


Feather dyed with acid dye in cold water


Feather dyed with acid dye in warm water


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