Fabric bound edge
MATERIALS USED • Sabutan straw • Silk dupion offcut
03
Fastening the tarlatan to the brim Keep the tarlatan bind as small as possible, e.g. make sure the bind is not as big as your expected finished edge covering of the brim edge. Clip the corners of the tarlatan at the centre back when overlapping. This stops it poking through the fabric cover.
02 RS
Measuring and making the bias strip Multiply the depth of the binding you want by 4, then add 2.5 cm extra for seam allowance and ease of fabric. The width of the binding should be the circumference of the brim plus 2.5 cm seam allowance. Join the seam at the centre back on the bias.
01
Wiring preparation Measure, cut, straighten, overlap and tape the wire as explained in Issue 91 (see page 66).
A bound fabric edge used on
Victorian bonnets, 18th-century picture hats and 1950s Dior brims
03
Preparing the bias strip Fold the bias strip in half (raw edge to raw edge). Place the raw edge of the binding to the edge of the brim, making sure that the raw edge is level with the brim edge.
04
WS
Measure and sew the depth of hem Measure the depth of the hem on the brim and sew all round this line using a long back stitch. This will be your hem finish line.
05
Cross-section of how the bind should look
Raw edge of folded fabric Straw of brim
Wire on brim edge
Attaching the bias strip Attach the bias strip to your measured hemline using a long back stitch that is approximately 2.5 cm wide. With a long tacking stitch, sew the two raw edges to the brim near the wire. This will hold down the fabric while you turn the binding over the wire (see the cross-section drawing).
06
Folding the hem Fold the fabric all the way over to the inner side of the brim and to the edge of your tacked hemline. Attach the binding using a slip stitch that catches the straw and the fabric together.
Tip! If your binding twists
Finished edge
Folded edge of hem
Interfacing
anywhere on the brim edge this can mean two things: the fabric was not cut on the true bias, or your sewing of the binding is not on the true bias line.
february 2022 | 63
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