TECHNIQUES 01
Measuring the wire Measure, cut, straighten, overlap and tape the wire as explained in Issue 91 (see page 66).
02
Preparing the brim for sewing Mark the sewing line with a tacking stitch (taken out later). Test roll your straw over the wire, to see where the straw will be rolled over the wire twice over. Sew in a finish line with a tacking stitch.
03
Wire sewing Using a wire stitch, sew the wire on the finished straw edge. Leave 10 cm at the centre back open to make it easier to close the wire.
04 WS
RS 05
Hem sewing The best way to achieve this finish is to use small stitches. Sew a few stitches at a time to make sure that the brim edge line is right. Take care not to roll off the brim edge.
06
Rolling the brim Roll the straw over the wire and right up to the tacking line of 1.5 cm. Keep the wire on the
Hem sewing Following the weave of the straw, go with your needle through the straw at an angle, just picking up enough straw to sew down the hem. Then roll the straw over the wire to the finished hemline and pick up the next stitch. It may take a few rolls over the wire to get the correct tightness.
horizontal line of the weave. Draw in the wire to ease the straw and brim shape.
French seam hem using raffia fabric and pinokpok
07
Easing the wire and closing the back seam Leave 5 cm either side of the centre back unattached. Gently pull the wire ends, draw up the brim, and ease it into your shape. Attach the final 10 cm and roll over the straw to finish the hem.
MATERIALS USED • Sinamay or raffia straw fabric • Pinokpok
01
Using sinamay Block two halves of the same shape, both with 2.5 cm seam allowance. If the fabric frays, you may need more. Each layer must be blocked with two layers of sinamay for the right side (RS) and one layer of pinokpok for the wrong side (WS) as a lining. Make sure that you mark out N, S, E, W, front and backs (F&Bs), so you always have a
Edge-to-edge hems were used on early 19th-century straw brims, with different coloured fabrics as decorative features.
meeting point to accurately go to. Make sure that you tack where your hemline will be on both sides of the brims.
02
Wire Measure, cut, straighten, overlap and tape the wire as explained in Issue 91 (see page 66).
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