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SINGAPORE HAWKER CULTURE O


n December 16, 2020, Singapore’s hawker culture was added to the Unesco list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Singapore’s hawker culture refers to a unique


community and lifestyle of vendors cooking and selling meals in 113 hawker centers across the city-state. The UNESCO distinction was timely, highlighting the importance of protecting the vendors during the financially challenging time of the pandemic. According to data from Singapore Food Agency (SFA), in 2020, there were 13,958 total licensed hawker stalls, of which 6,138 were selling cooked food. What makes these hawker stalls special is how each one specializes in cooking a specific dish, often mastering it over decades. For Singaporeans, the hawker center is an extension of their home. They buy their breakfast, lunch, dinner, even their kopi, teh tarik and snacks from the hawker centre. With offerings so cheap, most families buy a rice or noodle meal for SGD $3.50, rather than cooking at home. It is more convenient given the busy work schedules of Singaporeans. Despite the hawker culture’s place at the core of Singapore lifestyle, younger generations are often not interested in continuing the family business. The long hours, hot and tiring working conditions and small profit margins turn off the younger generation. The average age of a hawker vendor is now 59 years old.


Adapting to circuit breakers When the pandemic forced lockdowns, known as circuit breakers in Singapore, hawker culture was severely affected. All dining was prohibited in hawker centers, limiting their sales to takeaway. Some hawkers chose to stop trading because they lost money staying open. Although many restaurants in Singapore quickly adapted to online ordering and delivery systems, hawkers did not easily adapt.


Elroy Lim and Tai Zhang Kai (right) set up Hawker Heroes to get hawkers online


97


When the pandemic started, friends


Elroy Lim and Tai Zhang Kai immediately jumped in to help the hawkers. Lim remembers: “In April 2020, Singapore had a circuit breaker where everyone was restricted from going out. That’s when we saw hawkers, especially those in the central business district (CBD), affected badly because offices were closed. We decided we had to step in and do what we could to help the hawkers in the CBD area specifically.” These two corporate professionals in their early 30s started Hawker Heroes, with no experience in the food industry, deliveries, or creating an online ordering system. “We felt there was a need because we saw the older hawkers really suffering,” Lim says. He went to each stall, one-by-one, asking why they didn’t want to do online delivery platforms. He found the two main reasons were the high commission charged to hawkers in the multi-layer system that they go through and the need to learn the right technology. The two determined friends came up with a simple food delivery solution, easy enough for non-tech-savvy hawkers to use. While other delivery services charge 20-30% of their food cost, Hawker Heroes


“We saw hawkers, especially those in the central business district (CBD), affected badly because offices were closed. We decided we had to step in to help”


charged an additional 10% of the food cost to the customer, plus a flat rate of $8 for delivery island-wide from one hawker centre. Hawker Heroes served six hawkers located within the CBD.


“I can claim we are probably one of the


first to have a so-called mix-and-match model enabling consumers to buy across various different hawkers,” says Lim. While there was a lot of scepticism from older hawkers at first, wondering who this young man was, walking around asking them to try food delivery, with many of them losing money some decided to give it a try since there was no financial cost to them. One vendor selling muffins doubted anyone


ASIA PAC


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