PÍA LEÓN


work visible,” she says. “I see it firsthand: most people in a kitchen are still men. I have nothing against that. The cooks are my friends, they are my brothers, and I feel like one of them – but they’re still mostly men. So this type of recognition might motivate girls who might be put off, to see that it is possible, that it can be done. Of course, I hope that someday it will not be necessary, that women and men will be recognized equally.” Business has been good for León and Martínez in recent months; they are back on track. When the pandemic hit, their biggest concern was supporting the 80 people who depend on them for their livelihood. Because government regulations were constantly changing, they had to make quick decisions. “I learned a lot about administration during this past year and a half,” she says.


“Before, our customers were people from outside the neighborhood, and many foreigners. I believe our response to the crisis was good, it helped us to connect to our community”


“We were closed for about three months, and from there we decided to do delivery, something we’d never done before. First we offered prepared dishes to finish at home, then we started offering more accessible things, such as sandwiches, to attract the local customer, the kind who is not accustomed to fine dining. Before, our customers were people from outside the neighborhood, and many foreigners. I believe our response to the crisis was good, it helped us to connect to our community. We’ve learned a lot.” On reflection, she sees she has benefited from living through the pandemic. “Going through this trying time, struggling to survive, knowing that so many people depend on us, I learned that without a team one does not grow or move. The team is so very important. In the end we are a family.”


From far left: Kjolle’s take on tarta muchos tuberculos; León accepts the title of best female chef is still needed in the male dominated foodie world; Kjolle interior


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