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Fats and oils


the fight against heart disease, diabetes and high blood pressure. Yet the explosion of the olive oil sector does, arguably, come with downsides – not least when it comes to sustainability. Especially when dovetailed by intense industrialisation, the cultivation and processing of olive trees can pollute air and earth, even as water consumption is often perilously high too. Especially around the Mediterranean, the erstwhile home of the olive but a region which now faces rising temperatures and drought, this is something which could have disastrous consequences. Yet the future of this ancient fruit is far from hopeless. Bolstered by new technology, farmers and factory workers are battling to cut the environmental footprint of olive oil manufacturing, with vast consequences for both the future of the planet – and that of this most venerable sector.


Pipped to the post It’s hard to overstate the scale of the modern olive oil industry. If nothing else, that’s clear from |the statistics, with work by Polaris Market Research finding that the global market is worth some $14.5bn, with CAGR estimated to hit 3.5% over the coming years. Yet with size, inevitably, comes industrialisation – and with industrialisation, environmental dangers loom. Like all intensive agriculture, using nitrogen fertiliser or burning residue is bound to impact the planet, but there are more specific challenges too. One, especially at more industrialised sites, involves water use. “On the agricultural side,” notes Teresa Garcia Lopez, director


of sustainability and environment at American olive oil company Pompeian, “high-density olive orchards require much more water than traditional groves.” That’s reflected in practice: according to one 2019 study, one litre of finished oil has a water footprint of almost 4,000 litres. That’s reflected by other traditional difficulties. Essentially, this can be understood by how oil is processed. To get from raw olives to bottled oil means dealing with hazardous effluents, typically exhibiting antimicrobial or phytotoxic properties. Considering, moreover, that around 30 million cubic metres of olive mill wastewater is produced annually around the Mediterranean, and that it can’t be sent to ordinary wastewater treatment plants, there’s obviously cause for concern. That’s echoed, says Juan Antonio Polo Palomino, by the fact that olive oil’s impact isn’t one way. As the head of the olive oil technology and environment department at the International Olive Council puts it, the relationship between “agriculture and climate change is bidirectional” – meaning that climate change could yet stymie olive growing even as oil affects the planet.


All the same, it’d be wrong to imply that it’s all doom and gloom. To an extent, that’s down to the basic characteristics of olives themselves. As the Romans and Mycenaeans would themselves surely have recognised, traditional olive groves are remarkably hardy, requiring far less water than high-intensity groves. That dovetails, explains Juan Carrasco Vilchez, by the “high biodiversity” of many olive-growing areas, with the global sustainability manager at Spanish


+90%


The percentage by which the consumption of water during olive oil production decreased, thanks to changes in the process instituted in the 2000s. Pompeian


Ingredients Insight / www.ingredients-insight.com


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