was translated as food cooked with the senses (3). Soul food is wholesome food that uses everything available. Nothing goes to waste: stale bread is transformed into a great dessert—bread pudding—and old rice is transformed into a sweet pudding for the family dinner.
Other African American food practices reflect the types of foods available during the period of slavery
as well as the food practices unique to the homelands of African Americans. Slaves who worked in the fields developed meals that required minimal preparation and could be prepared in large quantities. Cooks made use of cuts of pork that were inexpensive or undesirable to whites (eg, tail, feet, chitterlings, ears) (1,4). Common staples also included rice, beans, and greens. Food was boiled, fried in lard, roasted in leaves, or baked on hot stones in the ground. Stews fed many people, black molasses added sweetness, and fatty gravies provided calories needed to work long hours in the field.
The Africans who worked on the rice, sugar, cotton, and tobacco plantations of the South and the
Caribbean used the food practices from their homelands. Many plants and seeds in the United States were new to them. Other foods were familiar, such as okra, watermelon, black-eyed peas, yam, eggplant, sesame seed or benne, leafy green vegetables or pokeweed, and spices from Africa. Many plants came from South America but had traveled to Africa, such as chilies, tomatoes, peanuts, and corn. Native Americans used corn as a staple food and reintroduced it to the dishes cooked by the Africans. West Indian culture introduced rich, hot, spicy flavors from garlic, pepper, bay leaves, and hot peppers.
As African food ingredients were introduced to the United States, so were African food practices.
Africans in the United States used spices to prepare one-pot meals because limited cookware was available to them. Stewing meats, deep frying foods, and roasting foods over open pit fires was common. Meat was cooked and smoked in hot stone-lined barbecue pits. The liquid from cooked vegetables and especially greens, known as pot likker (or pot liquor), was used as a dip for cornbread and to make soups and stews, and this liquid provided the necessary vitamins and minerals.
The landowners of the South lived on the choicest meats, and the Africans were given the scraps or
worst parts of the cow, chicken, and pig to make their meals, such as the guts, snouts, ears, cheeks, bones, feet, and insides of the animals. The sparse but fatty meat scraps provided protein and a source of concentrated calories from fat. The meats were smoked, used to flavor their food, and used to make stews. Some Africans had small kitchens and raised their own animals, and they began cooking in a new way. Africans hunted squirrels, raccoons, possums, and birds for the family meals. They were not permitted to use guns for hunting but learned how to catch the animals and fish in nearby lakes or streams.
The dishes prepared by African cooks were confined to the South until the end of slavery in 1865.
Then freed African cooks began taking their culinary skills to the North and West and continued to improve them. They cooked in hotels, for wealthy families; as porters on railways; and as chuck wagon cooks (cooks on traveling wagons that contained mobile kitchens) for travelers and cowboys. Buffalo soldiers, members of regiments of all-black soldiers created after the Civil War, used stew pots and iron skillets. When Buffalo Soldiers became cooks in restaurants, they carried over their cooking traditions and imbued the cooking with flavorful recipes passed down by oral tradition from generation to generation.
Over the years, resourcefulness and inventiveness became distinctive culinary traits as African
American women used their own style of cooking. Cooks started their own catering businesses and opened small restaurants in their neighborhoods. After the GreatDepression, the use of processed foods and ready- to-eat foods increased. More meat was consumed, as well as more dairy products; canned, frozen, and dried foods; and ice cream. Less fruits and vegetables were served. Potato chips, french fries, and convenience foods became popular in the United States and in the homes of some African Americans. The South continued its food practices. In the Midwest, poor African Americans continued to eat greens,
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