TRAVEL
all superbly adapted to this harsh habitat, with any number of wonders sure to wow visitors to the fascinating Namaqua Coastal Route. Pick any gravel road and set off on
your journey of discovery; chances are you won’t see another vehicle for days. These forgotten tracks off er the best way of experiencing the striking landscapes, fresh air and star-studded night skies up close and personal. And as you dust-line beyond the arid plains and outcrops – abundant with semi-precious stones, crystals and similar geological treasures – you’ll eventually reach the freezing Atlantic Ocean just beyond the rugged coastline. A unique culture awaits, with quirky villages such as Kleinzee, Koiingnaas and the likes begging exploration. One thing’s for sure: you’ll need your
bakkie in this region because you’ll be exploring for days. And if you do visit, here are a handful of spots you don’t want to miss…
HONDEKLIPBAAI – aka “Dog-Stone Bay” – was named for a peculiar ocean
rock reputedly resembling a dog, “but you probably need at least a few brandewyn [brandy] and Cokes to see it”, according to one of the locals I chatted to. This tiny West Coast hamlet brims with character and a sort of weird car-
crash attraction, but has nonetheless achieved legendary status over time as one of the Northern Cape’s premier seaside holiday destinations. A rather topsy-turvy history has seen the town go through a number of booms and subsequent collapses, from copper to
Right:
The quirky Bagdad Café en route to Nieuwoudtville, is a road trip institution on the edge of the Knersvlakte.
Below: Wild camping south of Groen Rivier mouth, where gnarly surf breaks abound.
crayfi sh and then diamonds, before beginning to bank on tourism. At fi rst glance, Hondeklip comes
across pretty much as a haphazard holiday town set upon a stretch of coastline where the beauty isn’t immediately tangible. The West Coast has a rough edge
to it and best you don’t arrive here expecting anything fancy. These days, however, you’ll fi nd an espresso
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