FOOD & DRINK LANZAROTE DESTINATIONS “T
his is the beginning. Everything started with
the volcano,” says Ascensión Robayna, picking up a handful of coal-black ash and letting the dark flecks spill through her fingers. Like the rest of Lanzarote, the
vineyard that supplies Bodega Bermejo is covered in a layer of thick black ‘picón’, a remnant of an enormous volcanic eruption that lasted six years and buried a quarter of the island’s surface below a blanket of lava. But like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the islanders were able
to salvage something from the jaws of disaster. They couldn’t grow vegetables or graze cattle any longer, but with the aid of rich volcanic soil, there was one thing they could now do better than before: make wine. Lanzarote’s first winery opened
in 1775, just 45 years after the eruption. And now, some of the island’s vintners are resurrecting traditional methods of organic winemaking with a little help from the Tui Care Foundation. “It’s important to know,
when you test the wine, what the beginning was, and how
the farmers adapted to this landscape,” says Robayna, who left her job as an accountant in the nearby village of Montaña Blanca to clear an abandoned vineyard and restore it to its fruitful former life. “It’s important to bring back
traditional methods, to reflect this winemaking role. It’s a way of preserving the landscape, our culture and our heritage.”
w HEART OF THE MATTER Robayna is based in La Geria, a fertile area at the heart of the island that is the centre of its
winemaking industry. It’s also home to the vineyards supported by the Tui Care Foundation, in partnership with German sustainability initiative Futouris, in a project that not only helps local winemakers but also provides employment for people with disabilities. With its dark, churned-up landscapes, palm trees bent over by the wind and brooding mountains framing the background, it’s hard to believe the islanders manage to make anything grow here in La Geria. But dig deep, below the
25 April 2019
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