LATIN AMERICA PANTANAL DESTINATIONS “O


h look, a squirrel,” says Molly Cofman-


Nicoresti from specialist tour operator Latin Routes, as she points vaguely at a tree to the left. Our tour guide Juan stops dead and looks at the tree in astonishment. “A squirrel?” We’re deep in the Pantanal in


Mato Grosso, Brazil – one of the most concentrated environments of biodiversity in the world. Flocks of exotic birds take off from trees above our heads, insects crawl beneath our feet and the echo of a group of howler monkeys can be heard in the distance, as the morning sun beats down. Despite these overwhelming sights and sounds, to my


surprise, our guide’s attention turns wholeheartedly to the familiar-looking squirrel. He stands on the path watching it in awe, in the same way I had peered up at a beautiful hyacinth macaw just a moment earlier. Juan can’t believe what he’s seeing. Apparently, squirrels are extremely rare here, though for us, it’s the only recognisable animal we’ve seen. The Pantanal in western Brazil spans an area of more than 70,000 square miles – almost the size of England and Scotland combined. Often overshadowed by the Amazon, which is even bigger, the Pantanal is the world’s largest wetland, with an


environment much less dense than its commonly known counterpart. The area is easily accessible


from Cuiabá in western Brazil and Campo Grande in the south, and offers a great counterpoint to the buzzing cities and beaches elsewhere in Brazil.


w A RURAL RETREAT The second I stepped out of the car on to the deserted Transpantaneira – the 91-mile entry road into the Pantanal from Cuiabá – my senses were overwhelmed. Dragonflies and butterflies whizzed past my face, while I kept a cautious eye on the caiman that was sitting still in the water just over the


fence. Dozens of exotic birds and insects chirped and buzzed in unrecognisable rhythms all around me. Every single noise was new and unfamiliar. A further 18 miles down the


road was our home for the next few nights, Araras Pantanal Eco Lodge. Set right in the heart of the wilderness, it has nearly 3,000 hectares of private land where guests are taken out on tours, according to Akhila Krusic, one of the lodge’s owners. “It’s a big piece of land where we do safaris, night drives, horse riding and trekking,” she says. Comprising 19 guest rooms,


the eco-lodge welcomes visitors from every corner of the


25 April 2019 travelweekly.co.uk 45


FAST FACT


Cuiabá, the closest airport to the Patanal, is a two-hour


flight from São Paulo, Belo Horizonte and Brasilia


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