DESTINATIONS ETHIOPIA | ACTIVE & ADVENTURE


LEFT TO RIGHT: A bearded vulture; Addis Ababa’s Merkato; Limalimo Lodge; holy mass in Lalibela; Bete Giyorgis PICTURES: Shutterstock


incredible rose-hued rock churches. Even those not especially interested in religious monuments will feel their eyes widen and their breath catch when they see the structures up close. Two groups of churches, with 11 structures in total, can be explored on foot via tunnels, steep stone steps and vertiginous bridges. Inside are faded frescoes, ornate carvings and reliefs. Bete Giyorgis, or St George, is perhaps the most incredible, carved in a cross shape from a single hunk of rock. Legend suggests King Lalibela, who reigned in the


12th and 13th centuries, carved each of these churches aided only by the angels. Logic suggests he may have had a little help from thousands of slaves. Either way, their existence beggars belief. Clients interested in religious history should head to


Unesco World Heritage Site Aksum, whose city ruins, castles and royal tombs date back to the first century AD. St Mary of Zion is believed to have contained the biblical Ark of the Covenant, now kept in the neighbouring Chapel of the Tablet.


MOUNTAIN RETREATS The best accommodation in Ethiopia blends beautifully with its surroundings – which is how it should be, with surroundings as incredible as this. Limalimo Lodge is one of the country’s most modern hotels, and perhaps the best choice for clients looking to relax a little between adventures. Its terrace juts above the peaks of the Simiens and, around the grounds, hammocks are strung between acacia


travelweekly.co.uk


Legend suggests King Lalibela carved the 11 churches aided only by the angels – and their existence beggars belief


trees. The stylish thatched rooms have plush beds and windows overlooking wooded hillsides. Rates start at $255 per night for a double room including food and drink, and a $10 conservation charge. In Lalibela, the Maribela Hotel is built high into an escarpment for dramatic views of the Ethiopian highlands. Rooms have terraces with daybeds to make the most of the view. Though, with bearded vultures often swooping below, you might struggle to doze off. Doubles from $99 per night, including breakfast. The wooden chalets at Bale Mountain Lodge are


scattered around a forest clearing, with a few stone huts next to the main building and restaurant, ideal for clients who might struggle with the narrow, winding paths. Prices start at $340 per room, including all meals, drinks and one excursion on foot per day. The lodge organises activities including tracking wolves and visiting a coffee village, where wild berries are sorted and dried on huge mesh racks. The tour is an opportunity to take part in Ethiopia’s coffee ceremony, a ritualistic, social occasion that, like most things in this country, is well worth taking a little time over.


TW


A BIRD-SPOTTER’S GUIDE TO ETHIOPIA


E Bearded vulture: This surreal- looking bird – also known as the lammergeier – can swallow bones whole. They smash animal carcasses by dropping them from a height, so they can swoop down and pick over the remains.


E Yellow-fronted parrots: These birds – which are actually a vibrant shade of green, with a bright-yellow face – are endemic to Ethiopia, and can be found in the trees around vast Lake Tana, source of the Blue Nile River.


E Flamingos: The lakes of the Rift Valley, a giant trough that, in effect, slices the country in two, are a twitcher’s dream. There are fish eagles, marabou storks and pelicans and, at Lake Abijatta, hundreds of thousands of flamingos flutter over the water like rose petals in the breeze.


25 JULY 2019 81


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100