64 DEVICES
such as atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis or acne, while skin cancer is among the most serious effects.
Ultraviolet radiation The effects of UVR on human skin differ depending on the wavelength. Solar UVR consists of three spectral areas: UVA (320– 400 nm), UVB (280–320 nm), and UVC (180–280 nm). UVA has been implicated in skin aging (photoageing) and has been linked, along with UVB, in the development of cutaneous immunosuppression and skin cancers such as malignant melanoma, basal cell carcinoma (BCC), and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) (photocarcinogenesis). UVA and UVB damage the DNA through
different mechanisms. As the depth of penetration into the skin is dependent on the wavelength, UVB is largely absorbed by epidermal cellular components (proteins, DNA), while UVA radiation penetrates deeply into the basal layer of the epidermis and dermal fibroblasts. Increasing evidence demonstrates that UVA in combination with common environmental pollutants, like PAHs significantly increases visible photodamage in skin.
Cigarette smoke Cigarette smoke is a complex aerosol composed of thousands of chemical substances, including a large amount of oxygen radical forming substances, such as catechol, known to interact with the skin. These can activate transepidermal water loss and degeneration of connective tissue in the skin, which can trigger deeper periorbital wrinkling.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
Heavy cigarette smokers were 4.7 times
more likely to have facial wrinkles than non- smokers, independent of sun exposure (Kadunce et al., 1991; Freiman et al., 2004), although the combination of smoking and sun exposure may have a synergistic effect on skin aging. Other studies have also linked smoking to a higher chance of developing psoriasis and acne.
Temperature and humidity With the change of seasons, changes to temperature and humidity can impact greatly on the skin and the performance of skin care formulations. The drier the air, the more moisture is drawn from your skin, increasing dryness and flakiness during colder days, especially if you are prone to eczema or other dry skin conditions. Sudden changes in temperature (for example, moving from a cold, windy environment outdoors to a centrally-heated building) also dries out the skin and can lead to broken veins and skin redness, by causing the capillaries in the face to contract and expand rapidly. Windspeed is also a factor in drying out the skin.
Screen time While the results are not yet regarded as conclusive, several recent studies have suggested that the HEV (high-energy visible light) or ‘blue light’ emitted by many televisions and smartphones could be harmful to the skin with prolonged exposure. Some studies also have hinted that the effects can be even stronger among people with darker skin, as the blue light can cause hyper-pigmentation and skin darkening.
Managing the external environmental
and its effects on your skin is challenging for three main reasons. Firstly, you do not have the same level of control over these external factors as you do over your internal environment. Secondly, each of the environmental factors are variable and change every day. Finally, different people with different skin types react differently to the same environmental conditions and the same skin care formulations.
This exacerbates the challenge for the average skin care consumer. What formulations should they be using, how much should they be using and how often should they be using it? Trying to get the nutritional balance for the skin right on a personalised basis is hard enough, but when you place that within a constantly changing external environment, it adds a whole new layer of complexity. With so many external factors to
consider, and a personalized approach required by each individual, it is becoming increasingly obvious that the average consumer needs tech-enabled support to manage their skin care routine and optimize the effectiveness of their skin care products.
Skin care and the quantified self My own work is focused on using technology alongside formulation to provide a greater degree of personalization to skin care consumers. Some years ago, I had a light- bulb moment at a skin care conference when I realised that my existing expertise in ‘Quantified Self’ medical technology could solve some of the major challenges faced by the global cosmetic industry.
March 2020
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