44 SKIN MICROBIOME
Natural anti-acne extract aids healthy skin microbiota
n Carine Boutot, Sandie Gervason, Assia Dreux-Zigha, Magalie Cabannes, Jean-Yves Berthon – Greentech, France Edith Filaire - University Clermont Auvergne & Greentech, France Isabelle Metton – Phylogene, France
Acne is one of the most common skin diseases worldwide affecting up to 85% of the population.1
Abstract At the pathophysiological
level, two factors play a crucial role: the sebaceous gland and Cutibacterium acnes. More precisely, located in the sebaceous gland-rich sites of skin, C. acnes is a gram- positive aero-tolerant anaerobic bacterium belonging to the Actinobacteria phylum. Several mechanisms have been proposed by which C. acnes aggravates acne, including augmentation of lipogenesis, comedone formation, and host inflammation.2
Recently, different strains of
C. acnes were identified, showing that its subtypes could also be important in acne development.3
Despite controversial data in
line with the population samplings, anatomic sites and typing methods, most studies report that strains from the type IA1 preferentially colonize skin with acne while others are not or poorly present in acne lesions (IB, II and III).4
Dagnelie et al.5 also
reported that inflammatory severe acne of both the face and back is associated with diversity loss of C. acnes phylotypes, with a
a
100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
D0 RT extract
D0 Placebo D28 RT extract
D28 Placebo
high predominance of phylotype IA1, both on the face (72.7%) and the back (95.6%). Thus, it seems that the severity of acne may be more related to the selection of its subtypes than to its proliferation. It is also important to note that other factors such as androgens and hormonal fluctuation or imbalance, poor nutrition, stress, pollution and habits are important in the development and persistence of the disease.6
Moreover, although C. acnes is b
100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
D0 RT extract
D0 Placebo D28 RT extract
D28 Placebo
Figure 1: Mean Relative Phylum (A) and Genera (B) abundances for each group of samples. For the sake of clarity, only Phylum with mean relative abundance superior than 0.1% and Genera with mean relative abundance superior than 0.5% are represented.
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA March 2020
best-known for its connection with acne, it has been shown that other bacteria might also (indirectly) contribute to the inflammatory process. In fact, culture-based studies have reported that Cutibacterium granulosum is highly abundant in the comedones and pustules of acne patients, and displays stronger virulence (i.e., lipase activity) than C. acnes.7 Topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide (BPO), which suppresses bacterial
Although a number of facts on the physiopathological mechanisms of acne are now well established, it is still unclear what triggers the inflammatory disease of the sebaceous follicle. Very recently, there has been a paradigm shift in the understanding of the role of Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes, formerly Propionibacterium acnes) in the pathophysiology of acne. Firstly, the aim of this study was the characterization of the skin microbiota with a focus on Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) phylotypes in subjects with acne. Secondly, microbiota changes after 28 days’ treatment of berries, Rhodomyrtus tomentosa active ingredient (RT), rich in acylphloroglucinols, polyphenols, and organic acids were analyzed. Clinical evaluations (lesion counts) were performed at baseline (D0) and after 28 days (D28) of twice-daily application of RT active ingredient.
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