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TEXTURES 55


Naturally improve sensorial appeal with plant waxes


n Josefine Schönborn – KahlWax, Germany


Cosmetic products are often primarily judged by their sensorial properties, as these can be evaluated right away, even before purchase. These properties, which include appearance, texture and scent, are an essential aspect when differentiating products, regardless of active ingredients. Consumers also tend to subconsciously link certain textures to efficiency, for example denser formulations are often perceived as especially nurturing and skin smoothening, while fast absorbing products are assessed as particularly moisturizing.1 Furthermore, today’s consumers are highly experience driven, with 60% finding trying out new experiences more exciting than trying out new products. This pushes companies to explore unique textures, like transforming textures or ones not normally found in the product category, which can also serve to enhance perceptions of efficacy. The use of varying textures in skin care and makeup products is particularly appealing to millennials given that they are most receptive to unique applications and formats such as gels, foams, and masks.2


Another benefit of an appealing


sensorial profile is an increase in application frequency/quantity, resulting in higher product benefits and perceived efficacy.1 Besides being functional ingredients that can stabilize and regulate viscosity of formulations, waxes are also able to enhance sensory properties and have a huge influence on texture of both anhydrous products and emulsions. This article will highlight the differences of five distinct natural waxes and their influence on texture and sensorial attributes of cosmetic formulations.


Introduction to natural waxes Waxes are a class of chemical compounds that are moldable to solid at room temperature. Typically, they are harder, less greasy, and more brittle than fats and show extreme resistance to moisture, oxidation and microbial degradation.


Characteristically they melt above 45°C, yielding low viscosity liquids. Waxes are insoluble in water but soluble in organic, non-polar solvents. Natural waxes are complex mixtures, which mainly consist of


March 2020 Figure 2: Coefficient of friction (dullness) of 5 % wax creams as measured by rheometer.


esters of fatty acids and long chain alcohols and free forms of these molecules, whereas synthetic waxes constitute of long-chain hydrocarbons lacking functional groups. Natural waxes are synthesized biochemically by numerous plants and animals. Especially in warm climates, plants secrete waxes as a way to control evaporation and hydration, essentially to protect against de-hydration. The chemical composition depends not only on the species but also on the geographic location of the organism. Traditionally waxes are used as consistency modifiers, co-emulsifiers and stabilizers particularly in W/O emulsions. There is the persistent prejudice that formulations with waxes have to be heavy, dull, sometimes sticky and too occlusive, because beeswax containing formulations often have these attributes. Therefore, in skin care, waxes were primarily used in cold and barrier creams and other rich W/O emulsions.


But constant innovation and


optimisation has unlocked many doors for the application of natural waxes in color cosmetics and also skin care. It is now recognized that waxes have a much bigger potential. Besides providing stability, enhancing viscosity and consistency, they form flexible, protective layers, can have a superb feel, and often serve many other cosmetic functions as well.


Methods


Five of our natural waxes were tested in a study with the aim of illustrating their rheological (flow and deformation) and tribological (friction and lubrication) properties. The samples included carnauba wax, sunflower seed wax, rice bran wax, tea wax, and beeswax. The approach taken was to initially profile the samples with an oscillation temperature sweep to provide an understanding of the formation of structure as a result of changes in


PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA n Beeswax n Tea wax n Sunflower seed wax n Rice bran wax n Carnauba wax


0.80 0.70 0.60 0.50 0.40 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.00


Figure 1: Coefficient of friction (dullness) of pure waxes as measured by rheometer. n Control n Beeswax n Tea wax n Sunflower seed wax n Rice bran wax n Carnauba wax


0.30 0.25 0.20 0.15 0.10 0.05 0.00


CoF (µm/s)


CoF (µm/s)


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