LIFESTYLE COSMETICS 53
regulations, under the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. The ‘Preservative Efficacy Test’ or ‘Challenge Test’ is a cornerstone of product safety and is a requirement for most products before they can be sold in the EU or US.
In the US, the law does not require cosmetics to have full FDA approval, however, they do monitor the safety of cosmetics. This includes the microbiological safety and the FDA can take action on any company selling cosmetics, which does not comply in making sure their cosmetics are free from harmful microorganisms by being adequately preserved or protected. While in the EU, regulations (specifically Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009), dictate that every cosmetic or personal care product placed on the EU market must have a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR). This involves products undergoing a ‘Preservative Efficacy or Challenge Test (ISO 11930)’ to ensure their microbiological quality, establishing that their preservative system can withstand microbial contamination during its shelf life and once in use for a limited period of time (PAO/expiry date). As consumers use products, they
introduce microorganisms which, if the preservative system is not effective, can result in contamination, spoilage and risk consumer safety. The challenge test mimics this contamination by introducing a known number of microorganisms into the product to ‘challenge’ the preservative system. This routine regulatory microbiology testing is performed using a variety of dehydrated culture media, which all have different properties, functions and nutritional benefits. At various points during the testing, the number of these microorganisms remaining are counted and the product must meet an appropriate standard in order to pass.
The typical materials used during the Challenge Testing can consist of enzymes, serums, antibodies, peptones and proteins derived from animal by-products of some form. These can include traditional culture media like tryptone soy agar (used to grow bacteria for counting) and preservative deactivators (neutralisers) such as Eugon LT 100 liquid broth.
An innovative solution: the world’s first vegan testing system The safety of cosmetics and personal care products is paramount. However, there has not been any other choice for vegan products but to undergo this routine regulatory microbiology testing, which uses a variety of dehydrated culture media and neutralizers, derived from animal by- products. Until now that is, because here at MSL Solution Providers, we have
March 2020
show an additional commitment and deeper understanding of what it means to market a product as vegan. The system is also registered with The
developed VeganSure® , the world’s first
vegan microbial limits and challenge test. For the first time, manufacturers and brands of vegan products in the cosmetics and personal care industry can now ensure that their products are efficacy tested on non- animal derived culture media. A brand new and unique testing solution, VeganSure replaces all animal- derived ingredients with plant derived or synthetic alternatives, to assure the safety of a cosmetic product without compromising vegan ethics. There are two key differences between traditional testing and the new vegan test. Firstly, it replaces all animal derived culture media and deactivators with plant derived or synthetic alternatives, such as papaya-derived enzymes, soya bean, sugars from potatoes, cornmeal and plant peptones. This has been a significant process, with nearly two years of extensive research, development and validation to ensure that the test is 100% vegan without compromising the performance or results of the test. Secondly, we have introduced separate laboratory workflows for media preparation and testing to ensure there is no cross- contamination between vegan and non- vegan tests.
This innovative new testing system offers brands and manufacturers a real alternative for the very first time. It allows them to carry out the same microbiology testing required to meet regulatory and safety requirements, but without using any animal derived ingredients, which better fits with the vegan ethos. The fact that it provides the same results, to the same standards and at a similar cost means the switch is easy for brands to make. There is the added value of being able to state that their products are tested with this new test method, differentiating them and allowing them to
Vegan Society’s Trademark scheme. Chantelle Adkins, Head of Business Development at The Vegan Society confirms that: ”The Vegan Society’s Trademark team has been able to assess each component used for VeganSure as well as observe the protocols in place to reduce any risk of cross contamination and can confirm that there are no animal materials, by-products or processing aids used during the test making it suitable for our registration as ‘Vegan’.” She continues: “Vegan consumers are looking for products that align with their lifestyle and needs. Being able to purchase products that have used the VeganSure test will give them more choice and hopefully lead to a greater understanding of cosmetics testing in general. We have observed that greater awareness will often be a catalyst for change and improvement in the cosmetic industry.”
Conclusion: A more transparent and ethically conscious future Vegans seek to exclude, as far and practical and possible the use of animal products in their diet and lifestyle. Therefore, with a trend that shows no sign of abating, testing that uses alternative materials, such as VeganSure, is likely to increase the demand for other methods to be re-evaluated and in turn, reduce the need for animal materials to be used in the future.
The consumers and brands we have spoken to about VeganSure have welcomed our new approach; and our hope is that, by working with The Vegan Society, we can educate brands and manufacturers particularly about this. Information is key to change, so cosmetic and personal care brands need to be more transparent about how they make, test, distribute and market their products. We hope that VeganSure will allow ethically conscious brands to further the vegan cause in a way that their customers would expect; and ultimately help make adopting a vegan lifestyle much more accessible.
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References 1 The Vegan Society 2
https://tinyurl.com/yysmgjyz 3
https://tinyurl.com/u3qlpzj 4
https://inews.co.uk/news/consumer/vegan- cleaning-products-demand-uk-tesco-rocketed- 92741
5 Hitwise UK survey 6
Cosmetify.com study, which questioned over 2,200 women between the ages of 18 and 45 years old, all of whom use makeup on a regular basis
7
https://www.marketingweek.com/how- conscious-consumers-are-driving-vegan-beauty/
PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA
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