38 ANTI-AGING
with outstanding flexibility and gives it special physical properties, such as powerful adhesion/cohesion to skin while it can also form thin, transparent films or networks with perfect mechanical characteristics leading to shrinkage when water is released.
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Porphyridium cruentum is a unicellular red alga. The alga continuously secretes a mucus made of polysaccharides called phycocolloids, which protectively surround the cells like a gel capsule. The key monomers are sulphated, uronic acid- containing sugars capable of retaining a high amount of water.5
The secondary alga
metabolites may also contribute to a long term cosmetic function in the skin. All these three ingredients deliver film-
forming polysaccharide polymers that have a synergistic tightening effect and at the same time have moisturizing properties. The polymer matrix blend in the wrinkle minimizer has been optimized to give a tightening effect that is intense and immediately perceivable but at the same time keeps the film flexible, ensuring a long-lasting effect for several hours. Incorporated in a marketable formulation (700338.0006, Ageless Eye Serum), the immediate effect is readily visible to the naked eye, as Figure 2 shows.
For alabaster-like skin Liftonin (now referred to as ‘the epidermal astringent’) was designed to re-establish and protect the organization of the fiber network with regards to the dermal extracellular matrix. It can be seen as a dual-component glue for the dermal network (see Figure 3). Compression of loose and weak dermal fibers leads to a re- establishment of strong collagen bundles and creates a robust dermal fiber network. Both orthosilicic acid and tannic acid are capable of binding to and gripping extracellular matrix fibers due to their high content of hydroxyl groups. Orthosilicic acid strengthens the existing collagen network6
and tannic acid contributes to stable tightening of the fiber network. By these means, it reorganizes the bundles of collagen in a way that promotes the infiltration of vital fibroblasts.7
Furthermore,
the fixation of the collagen matrix to the basal lamina strengthens the dermo- epidermal junction, counteracting the formation of fine lines and exacerbation of fine lines to form deeper wrinkles. The epidermal astringent not only
provides mechanical support to the dermal structure but also promotes healthy cell function: Valuable nutrients and vitamins present in the millet extract promote the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Orthosilicic acid stimulates the collagen production of dermal fibroblasts.8
By PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Before application 30 sec after application 3 min after application
Figure 2: Liftonin-Xpress provides immediately visible results following application of a small amount of Ageless Eye Serum containing 2% Liftonin-Xpress. Within 30 seconds, the lifting effect is almost fully completed as demonstrated by the readout of a PRIMOS 5.1. device. Male volunteer, aged 45. Top panels: optical view, middle panels: relief projection, lower panels: false color representation of wrinkle depth.
providing an attractive environment for the recruitment of fibroblasts to the affected collagen structures using tannins, the required fresh collagen is supplied where it is needed most. In addition, by inhibiting dermis-decomposing enzymes, tannins can help to maintain a fully functional dermis.9 As a result, the epidermal astringent perfectly combines physical properties and biological effects in one active ingredient.10
Functional ingredients and efficacy Tannins and tannic acid: natural astringents derived from oak gallnut Tannins are excellent astringents: they are extremely rich in hydrogen donors and acceptors, which allows them to form multiple hydrogen links and bond tightly with proteins. This very well-known intrinsic property of tannins can be employed to
generate a tightening effect on the skin surface. However, recent research has revealed another structural benefit to the skin: tannins contribute to tight crosslinking and stabilization of the fiber network of the extracellular matrix of the dermis and reorganize the collagen bundles in a way that promotes the infiltration of fibroblasts.7 An in vitro experiment using collagen disks impressively demonstrated the collagen- stabilizing function of tannins: while the collagen disks contracted readily when supplemented with fibroblasts, the presence of tannins delayed the contraction significantly by several days due to fixing of the collagen structure (Fig 4).
Millet Seed Extract: bioavailable silicon for strong connective tissue
For decades, millet has been widely March 2020
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72
