36 ANTI-AGEING
skin tonicity, 0 meant ‘insufficient’, while 5 meant ‘very good’; for skin lifting, the scale ranged from ‘absent’ (0) to ‘very evident’ (5).
Statistical analysis For in vitro analysis of collagen expression, and for instrumental evaluation of skin elasticity and firmness, statistical analysis was performed using two-sided Student t-test (evaluation within group: t-test for paired data-test with acceptability threshold at 5%; evaluation between groups: t-test for not paired data-test with an acceptability threshold of 5%). For clinical evaluation (dermatologist visual
grading) of skin tonicity and skin lifting, statistical analysis was performed using Wilcoxon test (acceptability threshold at 5%).
Results Treatment of human fibroblasts with 0.002% Nannochloropsis Granulata extract powder produced a significant increase in Procollagen I and Collagen I protein expression (Figures 1 & 2). This was detected by immunocytochemistry using fluorescence followed by quantitative analysis. The increase was statistically significant (+ 10.4% compared to untreated control for Procollagen I, p<0.05; +18% compared to untreated control for Collagen I, p<0.05). The active efficacy was comparable to the positive control (Vitamin C + TGFb).
The active powder was then reconstituted in a finished active solution and tested at 2% in a gel formulation against a placebo for 56 days, with readings at T28 and T56 compared to the baseline. Both instrumental data and clinical evaluation by a dermatologist confirmed the active’s efficacy in improving over time and with continuous use of the product, skin ageing parameters such as skin firmness, elasticity, tonicity and lifting. All data associated with the use of the gel
containing the active were statistically significant both at day 28 and at day 56 compared to T0 baseline (Figure 3-6), with a positive progression toward improvement over time: ■ Skin firmness expressed as skin suction reduction: -6% at T28 and -12% at T56 compared to T0 baseline, p<0.001, p<0.0001 ■ Skin elasticity: +5% at T28 and +10% at T56 compared to T0 baseline, p<0.001, p<0.001 ■ Skin tonicity: +30% at T28 and +65% at T56 compared to T0 baseline, p<0.05 ■ Skin lifting: +33% at T28 and +53% at T56 compared to T0 baseline, p<0.05 By contrast, the data associated with the use
of the gel without the active (placebo) were not significant at either T28 or T56 compared to the T0 baseline. These results are a clear indication of the specific effect of the active in reducing skin ageing parameters over time.
Discussion The need to identify cleaner and sustainable sources for plant-derived ingredients has highlighted the potential of controlled plant cultivations. While plant monocultures growing on soil have been associated with endangering biodiversity7
and exposure to pollutants,8
microalgae growing in bioreactors, controlled for culturing conditions, have shown the potential for a cleaner, circular and sustainable model.9
PERSONAL CARE February 2022
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* +10.4% *
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Microalgae extract (lyophilised) Active 0.002%
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Figure 1: Immmunofluorescence & quantification of pro-collagen I protein in human dermal fibroblasts treated with 0.002% microalgae extract (active powder)
2500 2300 2100 1900 1700 1500
+18% *
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Microalgae extract (lyophilised) Active 0.002%
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Figure 2. Immmunofluorescence & quantification of collagen I protein in human dermal fibroblasts treated with 0.002% microalgae extract (active powder)
Furthermore, the possibility of enriching and modulating the production of nutrients in the microalgae by using specific stressors such as UV light, highlighted the benefit of this approach to producing valuable active ingredients, both quantitatively and qualitatively.10,11
These
ingredients, highly concentrated in microalgae, have shown great potential in different applications, from energy to nutrition to cosmetics.2-5 We have exclusively developed a water-
soluble extract of microalga Nannochloropsis Granulata using a sustainable and a circular approach. Although this fraction is not usually used in this species of microalgae, being the main product (lipo-soluble fraction) used for nutrition, we believe the water-soluble extract would have great potential in cosmetic applications. We further concentrated the extract to increase
its activity. This step is essential in order to achieve best efficacy. When tested in vitro and clinically,
the extract showed skin anti-ageing properties by stimulating pro-collagen I and collagen I protein synthesis, as well as increasing skin firming and elasticity on the skin of healthy volunteers. The increase was measured instrumentally
against a placebo, and it was highly significant, suggesting a correlation between the increased collagen production measured in vitro and improved skin tonicity. To further verify this observation, a dermatologist graded the volunteers confirming an increased in tonicity and skin lifting. These data were also significant compared to a placebo. The effect of the extract on skin ageing
parameters like collagen, firmness and elasticity, can be attributed to different actives that are present at high concentration in the extract. Amino acids such as proline and glycine (which are both collagen building blocks) were found to be at a high level in the extract.
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Fluorescence intensity (± s.e.)
Fluorescence intensity (± s.e.)
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